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Anything with a 2JZ-GE that has coil on plug has the correct igniter. As will some V6s (5VZ-FE?) DH61 and 62 have both been confirmed to work, although realistically any 3 channel igniter and its matching coils will work (it just happens that the DH61 and 62 match the stock 7M coils, and the...

Yeah it is in the guide to removing multiplex.

And make sure your coolant stays full right to the top of the rad - if you are getting air it might be a leak in the hose to the overflow, or the 'dip tube' in the overflow tank itself.

If you followed all the software setup directions properly, it is probably a tuning issue.

I'd try a new sensor first. They are cheap.

If you look at my guide, it describes how to look for sync errors on the CPS signal to determine if you have a bad CPS. probably a tuning issue at this point. Also check to make sure everything is grounded properly.

You can just use the engine harness wires to go from the ECU plugs to the igniter plug if you want it wired in permanently.

Sounds like he is running a 1J. The multiplex is only an issue with the 7M (and a couple other early Toyota EFI engines)

The setup in software will be different, but the physical wiring changes will be identical. I would contact AEM directly to discuss how to adapt the box to work with a standard 3 channel ignitor, and the dwell settings (easier since the DH61 is a smart ignitor and sets the individual coil dwell...

It should work. make sure you use a relay, and if you run into issues with high amperage fans stalling the engine when they start, set the output to only be active at a speed about 200 RPM below the idle speed, so it will 'pulse' the fan a few times at start up.

No idea. The disabling of 4-5-6 and enabling of 7-8-9 only works for sure on the 7M boxes 1110 and 1130

Something is up - I make around 450 wheel at 13 PSI on my car. Bigger turbo etc. and 11:1 AFR, but still... you should be in the 360 to 380 range at 14 pounds.

Well if you plan to ditch the AFM anyways, the AEM works just fine. It doesn't need to 'compensate' for altitude if it is using readings from a manifold pressure sensor for fuel metering.

One thing to think about is converting over to a manifold air pressure based (speed density) fuel metering system instead of the stock restrictive and failure prone AFM. Most modern turbo cars run speed density, as it provides reliable and accurate fuel metering, especially under boost, and it...

Honestly, if you aren't looking for a power increase over what the lexus/550 swap gives, and considering the small turbo you are using, I would get the AFPR tuned so the ECU's Vf value is as close to no compensation as possible (Reg knows how to do this, it is quick and easy). Should be good to...

You could run the DH61 igniter from my writeup since it is a simple 3 channel smart igniter, and has an output that is compatible with the mk3 tach.

This was a big issue with the V1 also. Good idea to take the cap off and tighten up the trigger wheel gaps if you are having issues.

Run it where the stock sensor goes. Either calibrate the unit to use the stock sensor (easy) or do some machine work to make the AEM sensor fit the stock port (hard) up to you.

Run separate wires for the IAT, you can pick up wires from the old AFM harness to run the MAF sensor, but I ran separate wires anyways. A boost solenoid will also need separate wires. All the stock sensors will run thru the stock harness.

Are you running the stock multiplex igniter?