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They will fit normal 1J plugs. NGK BKR7E are used frequently in high power applications, gapped nice and tight.

Motorcycle pencil coils might be a good bet - I have heard ones from 600CC honda engines will work.

Other than the stock JZ-GTE coilpacks (6) and the 3 waste spark JZ-GE coilpacks, and the 7M-GTE waste spark coilpacks, I am not familiar with any other Toyota COP setups. I have heard perhaps Camry or Celica coils? I am sure there is more information on this forum, or someone else might chime in.

There are several solutions for COP with 1 ignitor per coil, even some aftermarket coils, which might be a better choice since the dwell times will be known. This is important to set so the coils get a full charge (but not overcharged)

You can use 2JZ-GE waste fire coils x3 along with the wires to fire the other 3 cylingers. Unless your EMS has enough jam (and is rated) to directly trigger the coils, you should be using an ingiter. The 2JZ-GE coils use a DH61 3 channel smart igniter which sets the dwell automatically. Or...

If the 4424 runs semi sequential (3 sets of 2) then even better. That is what I run on the AEM, and it idles fine with 660s.

Could also be not enough dwell time to charge the coils.

I wouldn't worry about issues with detonation, as at high load even in a sequential system the injector is open for much of the time that the intake valve is closed. The main worry is over rich idle, and an oil accumulator won't help. Perhaps use a set of smaller primary injectors with...

When you are at high power, even on a SEFI setup, the injectors are open up to 80% of the time anyways. The stock 7M TCCS uses batch fire (3 sets of 2 injectors). The major issue with batch fire (especially 1 batch of all 6) is getting the pulse width low enough for a stable idle on large...

That should work. Play around with the tooth settings, one order of 0.5, 4.5 and 8.5 will get you up and running.

That part of the wiring looks correct. The part you need to check, is to make sure that the wire going from the 6 pin plug "coil #1 out" is going to the coil firing cylinders 2 and 5, "coil #2 out" is going to the coil firing cylinders 3 and 4, and "coil #3 out" is going to the coil firing...

It just sets how many counts of the 24 teeth wheel it uses for spark timing, and since you want waste fire, you want it to count thru twice. Then the individual tooth values are where each coil will fire in the 12 tooth sequence. Setting it to 4 teeth makes it so it counts thru the cylinders 6...

Folow my instructions in this thread, make sure you check the spark teeth set to 12 and the phasing is set as I indicated. Also use the dwell wizard as per the instructions. If that won't work, something is wired wrong.

When he says to turn off multiplex, he means to uncheck ign mux.

Or you just keep upping the pulse width on all the idle range cells until it idles smoothly.

... you set the injector open time values in the fuel table, in the cells that are around the idle range for RPM and load values.

Once you do the injector wizard you will need to make sure the pulse width at idle is enough to actually get some fuel - if it is too low (below the injector's minimum stable pulse width) you won't get stable fueling and it won't idle.

If it runs on 6 cylinders and you can get the timing set up with a light, then you have the ignition setup done properly. The rest is fuel timing.

Sounds like an ignition phasing/setup problem. You should be able to at least get the car to start with the injector phasing all set to 0, it might just run like crap.

Check the idle dead band, should be +-50. Also 200ms reaction time for the motor is about right. I find the idle to be alot more stable around 12.0 - 13.0 :1, and I overfuel a bit and use the O2 feedback to correct at idle. Also, the % vs target should overshoot the idle thru its entire range...