Search results

  1. F

    Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    I had considered using the diodes, but with using the IS300 coils already, and a reluctance to keep using 20+ year old electronics, I decided to just bite the bullet and upgrade the ignitor to a much newer one. Grounding the case on the AEM unit to the engine block (just by tapping the ground...
  2. F

    Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    Yes - you need the GE ignitor from 98 and up. The GTE ignitor will NOT work as it is 6 channel. Well, it might if you only wired up 3 of the channels, but honestly I have no idea.
  3. F

    Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    Not unless you are still using a distributor - that ignitor is for the old style distributed 2JZ-GE
  4. F

    Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    The DH61 igniter sets the dwell automatically based on RPM. You just need to supply it with the ignition input pulse for each channel. You may need to fiddle around with the static dwell time for the outputs of the ECU to get it to run properly - I figured it out for the AEM box.
  5. F

    AEM Tuning.

    The AEM CDI system operating in waste spark mode and connected to all 6 coils, or the 2JZ-GE igniter with a set of GE waste fire coils would work. Normally, however, the O2 readings tend to lean out on misfires due to the unburned air in the exhaust. You sure the fuel maps are at least...
  6. F

    Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    Will work with any standalone that can control a standard 3 channel igniter. In fact, I'm pretty sure the MS and/or Stinger units require a different ignition setup as they are totally unable to properly communicate with the stock multiplex igniter. For the MS system though, the Ford EDIS...
  7. F

    AEM Tuning.

    Which ignitor are you using? the AEM box has a bad time with the stock 1J/2J ignitors, and the 7M ignitor.
  8. F

    Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    Yep - the ignitor numbers 4, 5 and 6 duplicate 1, 2 and 3 so you go: 24 teeth for ign. tooth 1 = 0.5 2 = 4.5 3 = 8.5 4 = 12.5 5 = 16.5 6 = 20.5 ez!
  9. F

    Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    Too much confusion! Ok, for the guide I posted on the first page, The coils are as follows: Coil 1 = 2 and 5 coil 2 = 3 and 4 coil 3 = 1 and 6 So it makes no difference if you have the stock 7M coil packs, or the JZ waste fire COP setup. You still need to wire in the way I first...
  10. F

    Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    Yeah you could move the plug wires around but some might be a little long or short, so it wouldn't look as neat. I'm also using the 2JZ-GE wastefire coils that sit over 3 of the plugs, so I had to wire it up as above.
  11. F

    Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    It's because the coil numbering procedure vs. the actual cylinders fired by that coil differs between the two systems. You can certainly wire it up C1 - coil 1, C2 - coil 2 and C3 - coil 3, but then in the AEM setup you need to set tooth 1 to 4.5, tooth 2 to 8.5 and tooth 3 to 0.5 I found...
  12. F

    Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    Yes, It needs to be a 2JZ-GE with the distributorless waste fire ignition, so from '98 onward. And for the knock inputs, I mean check the boxes, as in you need to enable the knock correction for all 3 coils instead of just coil 1
  13. F

    Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    Yes. If you do this with the stock ECU it will only fire on 2 cylinders.
  14. F

    Removing multiplex from 7MGTE for less than $200

    Note: This was originally posted to the AEM forums as a means of removing the multiplex igniter when using the 30-1110 PnP EMS. However, it is a good solution for a 3 channel igniter for many standalone systems. First, some background: I have a built 7MGTE swapped into a Mk2 supra, and had...