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Buy a Toyota. Ya just can't kill 'em! If you're looking to get into the "backcountry" find one with a rear e-locker (electronic locking differential) and put a Detroit Tru-Trac in the front (limited slip). You'll go damn near anywhere you'd want/need to take a full bodied truck. Or a selectable...

Get a selectable rear locker, sign up on www.pirate4x4.com , and have a blast. You'll wish you had 4wd quick, though.

I used diluted Simple Green years ago on my old black Supra with fantastic results. Rinsed with a hose afterward.

But the plastic stays much cooler than a metal box does, especially right near the exhaust. Function>form Be a much better idea if the aforementioned box was a composite material, fiberglass, CF, etc... as with a metal box my guess would be that intake temps would actually rise in comparison to...

It comes with one stock...

Correct. Make sure they're perpendicular to their mounting surface (right angles) and run a bead of weld behind them to prevent them from pushing back out. Your alignment tech will love you for it.

Not on the car yet. I'm lazy and unmotivated. On both subframes, make sure you make the small tabs for the eccentric bolts perpendicular to their mounting surface, then run a bead of weld behind each to prevent them from bending outward, thus not allowing proper adjustment. My subframe was...

Haha! Recaro isn't for sale, dudeface McManrod! You do not know me very well, so I will give you a slight insight to how I operate. I sold a perfect, brand new KevinM hatch shade so I could buy an authentic one.

Doing this totally depends on what you want to do with the car.

Nice. :) Where'd the FXs come from? They look like TRS (The Retrofit Source) FX-r units. (the mounting tabs are the giveaway that they're not OEM FX35s) Morimoto are pretty good ballasts, too. :) Have you given thought to going down to your local welding supply store for wiring upgrades? Wait...

::moebaker::

Too lazy to take pics of it all. LOL.

If you're going for big power, it might not be a bad idea to reinforce that subframe. Starting at post 86: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?53058-Update-7-12-09-White-car-stripped-for-paint/page2

LOL, I've got a shit ton of rare stuff just laying around, but none of it's for sale. One day, I will finish my car. ;)

Thanks. :) And yeah, steer clear from any PnP kits. They're pretty much junk. (not all, but most- even the halfway decent ones in a halogen housing don't provide good output)

I have an authentic hatch shade sitting here, but it has no sticker so that doesn't help.

No problem! :) Doesn't surprise me. It's a very common modification. I used 14awg to wire up the FXs, just because there's an initial current spike when the ballasts are energized, but after that it's a very low draw. Got any pics of what you're working with?

LOL. Mine only have one lens on the actual projector. I think my wording might be a bit confusing. The other lenses are part of the headlight housing and are there for protection only. The high beam lens is there for fluting/directing the light. Here are some other pics of the FXs: The cool...

Mount them in a set of cheap eBay housings. It's not difficult. I'll be doing it for my Pickup next summer which uses the same housings as the Supra. You can scour eBay for FX35 projectors, ballasts, bulbs, etc... often times you can get them as a package deal. I think I spent a total of $300 or...

I've dealt with both OEM and aftermarket. The OEM is better quality and fit. If you poke around, there was a recent thread where I posted a bunch of tips to make the job easier. I've done quite a few at this point.