good to know, im gonna look into it some more try to find an engine i can just start building once i get some money. dont think id b able to do it if something goes wrong on my daily driver. lol 
Considering NA-T
- Thread starter MrTristoe
- Start date
I went GTE with NA pistons, for the higher CR, but honestly, I love my NA's, I wouldn't want to boost them the way I boosted my 89, it's just too much of a hassle..
A supra is a supra, even if it's NA..
A supra is a supra, even if it's NA..
I'd buy a Turbo Supra. I have a NA-T in my garage...by the time it was finised(but hasn't driven yet ) (done right though) it'd cost the same as to get another car I guess.
I regret doing it, I should have left it N/A, then I would have something nice to drive now so I'm with RazoE
) (done right though) it'd cost the same as to get another car I guess.I regret doing it, I should have left it N/A, then I would have something nice to drive now
so I'm with RazoE
Speaking of Na-T, I'm planning on it and gathering parts. One thing I'm wondering about is the oil feed and return lines. I haven't gotten a chance to take a closer look but are the holes in the Na block already? Will they need to be drilled and tapped or are they in place with bolts in them?
Also what about the oil cooler return line to the oil pan, is there a way around that without having to remove the pan and add a fitting? Can the return be piped in some where else?
/noob questions
Also what about the oil cooler return line to the oil pan, is there a way around that without having to remove the pan and add a fitting? Can the return be piped in some where else?
/noob questions
If done right, block needs to be taken out and drilled and tapped (identical places as with turbo block, they are there, but not drilled). Prepare to lose a costy borer Try to not mess up with the shavings on the inside (I did...).
I used a kit from driftmotion (or analogue to it) for the lines to and from the turbo.
I went full flow, just bent the pipe at the pan so nothing can come out of there.
Though doesn't the oil cooler return on the turbos go through the oilfilterholder, or am I mistaken( haven't looked at one)?
Some go the easy way and do turbo return to the pan to that cooler spot I guess, but this isn't a good place.
Try to not mess up with the shavings on the inside (I did...).I used a kit from driftmotion (or analogue to it) for the lines to and from the turbo.
I went full flow, just bent the pipe at the pan so nothing can come out of there.
Though doesn't the oil cooler return on the turbos go through the oilfilterholder, or am I mistaken( haven't looked at one
)?Some go the easy way and do turbo return to the pan to that cooler spot I guess, but this isn't a good place.
I was hoping to just bolt stuff on I didn't think the motor needed pulled to drill and tap, sucks. I may re-think my na-t with pulling the motor it may prove easier for me to just dump a new motor in.
Oil drain into the oil pan, oil feed from the oil pressure sending unit.. Easy, not that hard at all guys
iwannadie;1663135 said:
That's why I'm saying it'll be better to find a cheap 2nd car
Or just direct 7mgte swap.Devin LeBlanc;1663345 said:
And that drain route isn't the right one (you said you did everything right??)
Pm sent to keep any un-needed argument and off topic posting out of the thread..
Here is how mine is setup
-10 AN Bung Tig welded into the oil pan between the crank weights to keep oil from flinging and blocking the drain (yes it is possible)
All Braided and AN fittings used, Can't get better than this
-4 AN fittings and braided line used for feed, BSPT-NPT-AN -4 used for turbo feed
Arizona performance CNC Aluminum Oil feed/drain flange with AN fittings -10 and -4
Total cost of above 175.00
Here is how mine is setup
-10 AN Bung Tig welded into the oil pan between the crank weights to keep oil from flinging and blocking the drain (yes it is possible)
All Braided and AN fittings used, Can't get better than this
-4 AN fittings and braided line used for feed, BSPT-NPT-AN -4 used for turbo feed
Arizona performance CNC Aluminum Oil feed/drain flange with AN fittings -10 and -4
Total cost of above 175.00
NA-T vs GTE. THis is like the SR vs. KA-T battle, it never ends and is pointless.
Sure and NA-T is just fine. If its tuned GOOD and done properly will be just as reliably as the GTE. No problem there.
My only "doubt" about it would be, GTEs arent expensive engines. I would think it could possibly cost less to just get the GTE engine and electronics for less that it costs to NA-T an engine.
Sure and NA-T is just fine. If its tuned GOOD and done properly will be just as reliably as the GTE. No problem there.
My only "doubt" about it would be, GTEs arent expensive engines. I would think it could possibly cost less to just get the GTE engine and electronics for less that it costs to NA-T an engine.
Grimsta;1663426 said:
I'm not going to debate what is better. However, the parts I'm gathering would all be needed if I were to just swap the motor. I mean there's nothing really I am getting Extra to avoid the entire motor swap. All the parts I need to go na-t would be needed if doing a full motor swap. My motor runs fine (MHG and arp studs) so I figure why get rid of it and get another motor that may be total crap. At least I know what I have in my motor as it sits now. Also, no one will buy a running na motor for more than 50 bucks locally. Run it till/if it blows then swap motors using all the existing turbo parts was my plan. Maybe it's a fools plan but sure makes more sense to me than buying an entirely different car.
I bought a running turbo car form a member on here for 600 bucks with what he thought was rod knock. Turned out to be a busted turbo. Had a buddy build me a CT-26 for 200 bucks. Donor car was an 88 so all i used was the hard parts. Got an 89+ ECU, Harness and igniter from a few other members on here and even though it turned out to have a GE block in the turbo car it still worked. Got issues with it still bul only because I'm to lazy to fix them. I daily the car and it gets me any where I need to go with out problem and it has alot more power than before and I'm running 12psi. Has been like this for a year so all in all I have about 2000 invested in the turbo swap. to me, yes it's worth it. I'm a firm believer in "this car is mine, there are many others like it but this one is mine" saying. I wanted a turbo Supra but not another Supra that happen to be Turbo.
89nasupra;1663464 said:
Well I would call your situation unique and you got lucky. For me I've had my supra for over 8 years now I think, I don't want to scrap it and start over. Nor do I want to buy a donor vehicle only to transfer parts over. I want to add to it, I don't really care what it started out as. I've already done an r154 swap which turned out pretty awesome so next step is turbo, being na-t or full motor whichever.
iwannadie;1663487 said:
Yeah I would say I lucked out because I was going to have everything machined anyway. Turned out everythign was perfect and there was a heat tag on teh back of the head from a rebuild shot so i figured it was a new motor. Bearings were not fully seated yeat and the cylinder walls still had the cross hetching in them. Once I got the motor out is when I noticed the OP never connected the oil lines to the turbo.
Grimsta;1663426 said:
this thread wasn't suppose to be about which is better. i just wanted to gather information from previous supra owners who went NA-T to see if it was worth it. its not suppose to be a battle against the NA-T and GTE.
Its definitely worth it.. Here are some videos to give you some motivation
[video=youtube;Pu6qrpXdSqA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pu6qrpXdSqA[/video]
[video=youtube;wDoBR07ZtlQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDoBR07ZtlQ[/video]
[video=youtube;Co7W0kVq5q0&NR=1]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Co7W0kVq5q0&NR=1[/video]
[video=youtube;5ZBeSabnQco]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZBeSabnQco[/video]
[video=youtube;Pu6qrpXdSqA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pu6qrpXdSqA[/video]
[video=youtube;wDoBR07ZtlQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDoBR07ZtlQ[/video]
[video=youtube;Co7W0kVq5q0&NR=1]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Co7W0kVq5q0&NR=1[/video]
[video=youtube;5ZBeSabnQco]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZBeSabnQco[/video]
Well yeah, if you've got a great condition engine I'd say go ahead its definately worth it. All you gotta do is bolt on some stuff and you basically have a GTE minus the oil squirters... which arent such a big deal
Now if the original GE wasnt in the best of conditions, thats when I really dont think it'd be worth it
Now if the original GE wasnt in the best of conditions, thats when I really dont think it'd be worth it
i dunno where everyone is so worried about the condition of a GE vs a GTE they are the same engine minus the later years oil squirter heads. 150K GE and a 150K GTE are the same. hell id almost venture a guess that the GE has seen less abuse cause it doesn't have a turbo.
Go for it dude and make 3217832109329081hp to the weels
Go for it dude and make 3217832109329081hp to the weels