Oil Cooler Delete?

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SupraNoob
Oct 13, 2013
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New Jersey
Anyone have a list of the parts I need to remove the 7mgte oil cooler? I've read that it really doesn't do much and becomes a disadvantage towatds oil pressure. I know I need to remove the old oil filter housing and oil cooler as well as find a bolt to plug the oil cooler side but what about the part where the oil filter goes? Will I just be able to install an oil filter once the oil cooler adapter is off or do I need some sort of adapter?

Thank you!
 
JDMMA70

JDMMA70

Active Member
Dec 4, 2006
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The oil filter block on the gte engine is there not only because of the oil cooler but also because of the turbo is in the way preventing one from installing a standard filter. If youre dead seat on not usibg the cooler get a canton filter adapter and run -8 lines from the adapter to a remote oil filter mount.
 
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SupraNoob
Oct 13, 2013
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New Jersey
IndigoMKII;1980856 said:
Heh, an oil cooler not doing anything. Bet it does a bit more than you realize if it's in proper working condition.
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Believe me I thought the same thing. I mean why would they install a part that "doesn't do anything". I'm just going by some posts that I've been reading up on but if others one here think it's a bad idea, I will stay away.
 
Dirgle

Dirgle

Conjurer of Boost
Mar 30, 2005
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Proper oil temperature control is an excellent thing for many reasons. The problem with the factory setup is that it is pressure controlled, not temperature controlled. Switching to a temp controlled setup will yield far more stable oil performance. With the factory setup, at any point the oil pressure exceeds the set point for the relief valve it diverts excess oil through the oil cooler and right back into the oil pan, doing good for no one. Remember rise in pressure doesn't always have an equal a rise in flow, such as when the oil is cold. So you start the car and the oil pressure rises, but because oil is cold it doesn't flow as well. So when your engine needs oil the most, the factory setup is diverting precious oil through the cooler keeping it cold longer and back into the oil pan. Not ideal. A temp based setup is the way to go.
 
nathaninwa

nathaninwa

New Member
Jul 1, 2012
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Aberdeen, WA
I wonder if you could install the water cooled unit from the 2j? Being on the same parrelel as I am almost, its cold most of the time and if you drive it daily, it will actually help get your oil to temperature faster and maintain it. If your not tracking the car it could be an elegantsolution.n
 
nathaninwa

nathaninwa

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Jul 1, 2012
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Aberdeen, WA
Depending on use. My application, DD. 40* morning drive to work air temps (for reference, its been 25 to 30*). Old system, was remote mount filter only. 10 mile drive I would see 160* oil temps. Same drive with 2jz water cooler installed Im seeing over 190*. I leave when water temp reaches 120*. My catchcan has less milky resadew in it now.

Its probably not for everyone, but imo should be considered for a DD type vehicle along with an oil temp guage installed so people arent guessing.
 
nathaninwa

nathaninwa

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Jul 1, 2012
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Aberdeen, WA
Backlash2032;1981420 said:
Maybe I'll get an oil temp gauge along with a full flow cooler.. hmmm haha

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk
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I see it happen alot. People want to upgrade the oil cooler but dont have all the data, like oil temps, to figure out just what is needed, or not needed.

Check out the data on the oil you run. Look at the viscocity flow number at 0c and 100c. My reading has said over and over again your looking for a flow number of 10 at 100c (212*) The higher the number the more resistnace to flow you have. Thats why I push for oil temps close to 100c for proper lubrication. Also check the flow numbers at 0c (32*) and you wont want to rip on it till the oil warms up. Ive seen 20/50 oils in the 300 flow range, where a 5/30 have in the 60/70 range.
 
nathaninwa

nathaninwa

New Member
Jul 1, 2012
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didnt mean to over complicate it, just educate yourself the most you can about the mods you want to make. A thermostat that wont open till 180* would be perfect. I was just commenting on the OP's area and season temps, that the watercooled unit might be better, and just how long it takes for oil to actually heat up and start to work, especially the loads a turbo motor is under.
 
Poodles

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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Fort Worth, TX
nathaninwa;1981424 said:
I see it happen alot. People want to upgrade the oil cooler but dont have all the data, like oil temps, to figure out just what is needed, or not needed.

Check out the data on the oil you run. Look at the viscocity flow number at 0c and 100c. My reading has said over and over again your looking for a flow number of 10 at 100c (212*) The higher the number the more resistnace to flow you have. Thats why I push for oil temps close to 100c for proper lubrication. Also check the flow numbers at 0c (32*) and you wont want to rip on it till the oil warms up. Ive seen 20/50 oils in the 300 flow range, where a 5/30 have in the 60/70 range.
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Those temps are high for normal driving...
 
nathaninwa

nathaninwa

New Member
Jul 1, 2012
377
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Aberdeen, WA
Whats high? I cruise at 190 to 200* oil temps and a grade in 6th ill see upto 210* Rule of thumb is within 10* of water temp. I talked with BraddPenn when I was running there oil and they responded with up to 240* is stable for there 10/30. Anything over 260* was to high and I should start to worry.

Ill contact Joe Gibbs and see what they say about their LS30.
 
Poodles

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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Fort Worth, TX
Normal driving means low load, which that's a high temp for a low load on 99% of modern engines (especially ones with a coolant based oil cooler system). Many cars are significantly lower than that as well.

Water evaporates off well below it's boiling point...

Keep in mind oil temp SHOULD go up when you're accelerating, the general point is that he's already that hot he probably doesn't have a lot of reserve cooling to handle when the car is pushed hard.
 
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