Picked up a 0 Mile f-body oil pan as my Corvette pan would not fit without pretty serious subframe modification. Also picked up valve covers. Now all I need is a bell housing, shifter and gasket set. I can then put the engine the rest of the way together and get the mounting off the engine/transmission all figured out.
SySt's Build up
- Thread starter SySt
- Start date
Scott, the VR4 is still under the knife. I scratched the bore with a piston ring 
. So we pulled the other engine and are making one good engine out of two, for short.
My LS6 swap is going slow. I have everything needed to test fit, just need a welder now... Also, the space in my garage is scarce given I have teo VR4 motors apart in it...
. So we pulled the other engine and are making one good engine out of two, for short.My LS6 swap is going slow. I have everything needed to test fit, just need a welder now... Also, the space in my garage is scarce given I have teo VR4 motors apart in it...
It has been a while since I last posted here but I am making another update. The pictures speak for themselves. Just need to do a little transmission tunnel trimming and fabricating of the mounts. It is going to sit back pretty far, about 2/3 of the engine will be behind the front axle. The shifter will be about 1-1.5" back from it's original location.
It is actually possible I will have a rear weight bias with a full gas tank. My cousin recently corner weighed his Supra. He scored a 52% front bias with a full tank. He has his rear stripped out along with his battery relocated in the back, full front interior, no A/C. My car will be the exact same except I have my entire car stripped along with a lighter motor that is mounted further back...
It is actually possible I will have a rear weight bias with a full gas tank. My cousin recently corner weighed his Supra. He scored a 52% front bias with a full tank. He has his rear stripped out along with his battery relocated in the back, full front interior, no A/C. My car will be the exact same except I have my entire car stripped along with a lighter motor that is mounted further back...
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IJ. said:Syst: Can I "borrow" your helper?
(pulling my motor today)
Of course you can borrow her, always willing to help a brotha out. Gotta share the wealth.
WOW an attractive girl not only working on a supra but doing an interesting swap. I saw liegeinfelter SC that bitch, seriosuly DO IT. If it were an LS1 ya could get a TT kit from banks, which would rock out. After seeing this I guess I can't bitch about how much a pain a 1JZ swap would be or say Im gonna swap because I am too lazy to completely disassemble my 7MGTE, who knows, maybe I'll just steal a mk4.
Syst: LMAO too damn late it's done now
Maybe for the reinstall?
(you made a tired old man smile)
Maybe for the reinstall?
(you made a tired old man smile)
Ok, gotta clarify. That is not me in the pics, that is my girlfriend. Also, that pretty much is an LS1 going in there. Lets put it this way, it's an LS6 shortblock with suburban 5.3L heads, an LS1 f-body oil pan and an LS1 intake manifold. The exteriors of the LS1 and LS6 are identical.
Well then thre banks kit may work on it, hard to tell since I don't work for banks and know little about GM engines other than basic stuff. Well your girlfriends hot then, but you have to admit since shes in every pic and your not in any it looks like its hers.
N/A really is the best configuration in my opinion. I can make over 500hp at the crank with a lighter more reliable setup than a 7M or JZ motor. Not to mention the bottom-end torque. Also, this is going to be a fun car. I'll do plenty of sliding around, auto-x, road racing and only occassional drag. So for that, the reliability is needed. I also do not want to run it any hotter than I have to.
hmmmmmmmmmmmm not liking the dissing of the 7m and JZ series engines, the 7M has its issues but once fixed its terrific and the JZ's are just well built power monsters, the lag is minimal if well built and tuned properly, guess the JZ's you've driven weren't done well.
I am not insulting the 7m or JZs. I am saying that N/A is more reliable than a turbo or supercharged engine, especially on a road course. I can not make the more/torque numbers I want on an N/A 3.0L motor. Like I have stated, my car is more for road racing than anything else. Ask most any long time road racer and they'll tell you a lighter, N/A motor making the same power is definitly the better choice.
I may have a little problem. In order to get a better pinion angle I need to lower the back of the transmission which is easy. However I can not lower the front of the engine any further as my oil pan will not clear the steering rack unless I lower the rack. This leaves the engine at a 5+ degree angle tilt towards the back. Now looking at an Escalade which has basically the same exact engine has it mounted at what has to be twice that tilt. I am wondering if any of you guys have experience with this.
sweet. those chambers remind me of the p&p 291 camel hump heads i bought for the sb400 in my truck. 2.02intake, 1.6 exhaust and 64cc chambers. :-D gotta love big motors. hehehe.
SySt said:
Damn luke... i dont think ive really seen a steering wheel in ur car since it ran last, last time i SAT in that thing i drove it, hahaha, good times, nice progress though maing, its lookin like its gettin closer and closer
Of course it has been slow, but some updates have been made. I have the brake lines done for the front circuit. I have to figure out routing the fuel lines and the brake line for the rear circuit, I want to keep it away from the header.
Some parts have come in recently. A Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve and Painless Performance 18 circuit fuse block. I just ordered a nice part last night also. An ATL 15 gallon steel fuel cell with bladder and foam, one -6AN output port, dual Walbro 255lph in tank pumps with two in tank regulators and filters. This will work great for my LS6 being that my fuel rail has no port for a return line. The cell also has a tip-over valve and a quick fill system and vents. This cell is actually out of an ASA car with an LS1... For those that do not know, my pump setup is probably around 1500hp capable. Of course I am only making MAYBE 450hp.
Some parts have come in recently. A Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve and Painless Performance 18 circuit fuse block. I just ordered a nice part last night also. An ATL 15 gallon steel fuel cell with bladder and foam, one -6AN output port, dual Walbro 255lph in tank pumps with two in tank regulators and filters. This will work great for my LS6 being that my fuel rail has no port for a return line. The cell also has a tip-over valve and a quick fill system and vents. This cell is actually out of an ASA car with an LS1... For those that do not know, my pump setup is probably around 1500hp capable. Of course I am only making MAYBE 450hp.