Finally snapped some pics of my fuel cell and also my coils. If you notice in one of the pics, there is TWO Walbro 255lph pumps in my cell. The cell also has a built in regulator so I only need to plumb a feed line to the engine. That works perfect as LS1s are returnless from the factory.
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Supramania Contributor
Holly crap!
Never took anything more than some quick measurements to make sure it would fit, but now looking at your LS swap, I have a few quick questions.
1) How much space/distance between the drop in the oil pan, and the stock MK3 crossmember? (IE: Can it go forward enough you do not have to trim the stock shifter hole/cutout and center console?)
2) It appears there is lots of clearance for headers to the strut towers. How many inches? (Aproximately is fine.)
Assuming the engine was put in so no cutting was needed on the shifter hole, and the oil pan cleared the crossmember, it is still going to have great weight distribution, and you have tons of room between the engine and the core support.
Are you going to lay down the radiator, or build a shroud, or just run electrical fans on this car?
I know you do not want turbo's on this, but I have always thought this would be the ultimate swap/upgrade to the MK3 chassis. Looks like your proving this correct.
Thanks in advance for the nice engine swap and build up photos/blog.
Never took anything more than some quick measurements to make sure it would fit, but now looking at your LS swap, I have a few quick questions.
1) How much space/distance between the drop in the oil pan, and the stock MK3 crossmember? (IE: Can it go forward enough you do not have to trim the stock shifter hole/cutout and center console?)
2) It appears there is lots of clearance for headers to the strut towers. How many inches? (Aproximately is fine.)
Assuming the engine was put in so no cutting was needed on the shifter hole, and the oil pan cleared the crossmember, it is still going to have great weight distribution, and you have tons of room between the engine and the core support.
Are you going to lay down the radiator, or build a shroud, or just run electrical fans on this car?
I know you do not want turbo's on this, but I have always thought this would be the ultimate swap/upgrade to the MK3 chassis. Looks like your proving this correct.
Thanks in advance for the nice engine swap and build up photos/blog.
I plan on running electric fans. I will build a shroud/scoop to help direct air through the radiator at some point...
As for clearances, you can move the oil pan forward a good 2". However the problem comes with the way the front of the oil pan is designed. Clearance between the oil pan and the steering rack becomes a problem unless the bring the engine up a little bit as you move it forward. Moving the engine up becomes a problem if you are using a Tremec T56 as their is minimal tunnel clearance.
There is about 5.5" from head to shock tower. The clearances get tight around the steering shaft on the driver's side unless you were to make your own header. Of course it sounds like you had the same thought I once did. Mount the big turbos in place of the battery and in place of where the 7M air filter sits. No clearance issues with that as far as I can see.
Also, there is 10" of clearance between end of the TB and the core support.
As for clearances, you can move the oil pan forward a good 2". However the problem comes with the way the front of the oil pan is designed. Clearance between the oil pan and the steering rack becomes a problem unless the bring the engine up a little bit as you move it forward. Moving the engine up becomes a problem if you are using a Tremec T56 as their is minimal tunnel clearance.
There is about 5.5" from head to shock tower. The clearances get tight around the steering shaft on the driver's side unless you were to make your own header. Of course it sounds like you had the same thought I once did. Mount the big turbos in place of the battery and in place of where the 7M air filter sits. No clearance issues with that as far as I can see.
Also, there is 10" of clearance between end of the TB and the core support.
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Supramania Contributor
Thanks SySt. 
If the current stroker motor ever dies, I'm keeping the chassis, but going twin turbo LS7 based.
I might also go with an automatic as I'm getting older, and traffic sucks in a stick shift! (Of course, when I ride the FZ1, it's fine... )LOL
It would negate any mounting issues too, the auto trans could be put pretty much anywhere forward or aft, and the cable to the shifter would take up any slack. I also think the auto transmissions might be better on top side clearance too? Not sure as I have not measured one, but IIRC, most are just round up there for the most part, and wider with the pan on the under side...
It is dang tempting for sure. I honestly can't imagine a 1000 or 1200rwhp street car. It would be insane without AWD to help hook up, but once it's under way, it would be unstoppable I'd have to imagine.
I remember a few years ago, the guy who made the FAST computer setup was giving some dude a ride in his twin turbo vette rated at about 1200hp, the guy was scared to death! (Passenger that is.) Rad Rides by Troy used this same type of motor in a car they build too IIRC. Very fast, and very nice sounding too.
Not dissing on the 7M/JZ people, but with the money I've dumped into this car, I could have gone V8 TT and pretty much been done by now.
One more question. I see where you removed a panel on your tunnel. Would that be needed if the motor was moved forward so the shifter would clear the stock cutout? (Or was that to make room for the transmission?)
Thanks again.
If the current stroker motor ever dies, I'm keeping the chassis, but going twin turbo LS7 based.
I might also go with an automatic as I'm getting older, and traffic sucks in a stick shift! (Of course, when I ride the FZ1, it's fine... )LOL
It would negate any mounting issues too, the auto trans could be put pretty much anywhere forward or aft, and the cable to the shifter would take up any slack. I also think the auto transmissions might be better on top side clearance too? Not sure as I have not measured one, but IIRC, most are just round up there for the most part, and wider with the pan on the under side...
It is dang tempting for sure. I honestly can't imagine a 1000 or 1200rwhp street car. It would be insane without AWD to help hook up, but once it's under way, it would be unstoppable I'd have to imagine.
I remember a few years ago, the guy who made the FAST computer setup was giving some dude a ride in his twin turbo vette rated at about 1200hp, the guy was scared to death! (Passenger that is.) Rad Rides by Troy used this same type of motor in a car they build too IIRC. Very fast, and very nice sounding too.
Not dissing on the 7M/JZ people, but with the money I've dumped into this car, I could have gone V8 TT and pretty much been done by now.
One more question. I see where you removed a panel on your tunnel. Would that be needed if the motor was moved forward so the shifter would clear the stock cutout? (Or was that to make room for the transmission?)
Thanks again.
Panel on the tunnel? You mean where all the holes are drilled, used to be spot welds? They is the driver side transmission mount. I had to remove it to fit the transmission. I definitly agree with the price to performance with a 3rd or 4th gen SBC. I never had a super fast 7M but comon, my setup weighs probably 100lbs less than most 7Ms and it will make over 400hp on the crank with a very good torque curve and definitly get better mileage than my 7M... I just do not see how anyone can ignore the obvious performance advantage over a 7M/JZ motor. By facts alone the LSX motors are simply better performance engines.
Wow, thats come a long ways since we went for that cruise a while back when you had ur 7m in it, hahaha (im sure you know which one im talkin about)... anyways, Id love to come see this thing sometime if ur not too busy
someday I want to put an LS into a MKII...2800 pounds...HOLY CRAP that would be awesome!
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thread highjack:
i'm doing an LS into my mk2. have an oil pan that fits from the GTO's, front sump pan, fits great. waiting to save up enough for the engine/tranny, but houses and bills are fuckin expensive.
some pics.
http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/SupraDevil/V8/
that swap looks awesome man, makes me wish i had the money to start mine right now, i can't wait till i can fire mine up for the first time.
i'm doing an LS into my mk2. have an oil pan that fits from the GTO's, front sump pan, fits great. waiting to save up enough for the engine/tranny, but houses and bills are fuckin expensive.
some pics.
http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b340/SupraDevil/V8/
that swap looks awesome man, makes me wish i had the money to start mine right now, i can't wait till i can fire mine up for the first time.
I like where that oil pan has the oil filter. Easy to change, but would be kinda messed up if it hit something..
After trying F-Body and C5 exhaust manifolds, I found some that will work. They are off of a CTS-V. The clearance to the steering link on the driver's side is so close that when turning the steering wheel the pinch bolt rubs a little. So with some grinding it should JUST fit. I am not worried about much movement as I have polyurethane engine and transmission mounts... I will post some pics of that once I have the grinding all done.
I have been working on the engine harness and am about half-way done with it. After that it is time for the chassis harness. I also still need to actually make my transmission mount and weld up a cage to mount my fuel cell. After that I just need to weld up some exhaust piping and route the feed line to the fuel rail and the rear brake line. I plan on routing the brake and fuel lines through the interior.
I have been working on the engine harness and am about half-way done with it. After that it is time for the chassis harness. I also still need to actually make my transmission mount and weld up a cage to mount my fuel cell. After that I just need to weld up some exhaust piping and route the feed line to the fuel rail and the rear brake line. I plan on routing the brake and fuel lines through the interior.
buckshotglass
I love all your sounds.
SySt said:
Hit up a local ACE hardware if you have one near you and get a button head cap screw for the pinch bolt. This will can you back clearance and not have to grind anything and uses an allen key for tooling.
That is a good idea CJ. I also am thinking about using some blue loc-tite and getting rid of the lock-washer. The pinch "flange" still will rub slightly but using your idea will make the need for grinding less.
Just thought I would post up some pics of the CTS-V manifolds in the car. Clearance is extremely tight with the steering shaft as you can see. Also the flange on the passenger side hits the frame rail. The clearance for piping coming off the manifolds will be enough as well. So after a little grinding these manifolds will work. Bear in mind though, unless one were to mount the engine very closely to the way I did, these manifolds would not work.
