SySt's Build up

cjsupra90

previously chris90na-t
Jun 11, 2005
1,029
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Lakeland, FL
Damn, and I though that the 1UZ stuff was going to be tight.

Why not look it some block hugger headers for it. Should open up some room and add a tad bit more performance. Or custom one's.
 

SySt

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Burnsville, Minnesota
cjsupra90 said:
Damn, and I though that the 1UZ stuff was going to be tight.

Why not look it some block hugger headers for it. Should open up some room and add a tad bit more performance. Or custom one's.

Once I have the car running my first thought will be making my own long tube headers. Fact is Hooker makes a set of block hugger headers, and one other MKIII Supra guy putting an LM7 in his Supra has tried those and they do not seem to work.
 

Supra_Shopper

Fabricating
May 18, 2006
14
0
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Florida
www.fquick.com
SySt said:
Once I have the car running my first thought will be making my own long tube headers. Fact is Hooker makes a set of block hugger headers, and one other MKIII Supra guy putting an LM7 in his Supra has tried those and they do not seem to work.

The blockhuggers I am using on the LM7 are the Sanderson CC1-LS1. The driver side was the better of the two, no steering shaft interference at all, the big problem I had was with the passenger side. I ended up cutting the flange off and welding a 2.25" pipe onto it and it has a bend at the bottom where a 2" pipe is clamped inside. Another 2" pipe comes off the driver header and they Y into a 3" pipe via a Flowmaster 2.25 x 2 to 3" collector. From there, the 3" pipe follows the stock location to a reversed dual inlet / 3" outlet muffler- looks stock! The exhaust sits nice and high, I don't see any ground clearance issues.

I attached a few pics of the exhaust, and a recent underhood pic (waiting on tuning software to get it to run).

The Hookers with their center outlet would not work at all for my setup.

The ideal manifold on the passenger side would have the outlet about even with the #5 cylinder, there are some odd angles involved due to the Supra K-member and the Gen 3 V8 starter.

With the proper skills and bends, it would be easy to fab up a set of 1.75" longtubes. I found some bends, but I lack the skills to do that.

Since this was a scratch built conversion, it could have been done better in many respects (20/20 hindsight). The main thing is that the motor sits too high by about 1/2". I used a truck oil pan to size the mounts, and the F-body pan lets it sit lower, and it may have gone back a little as well, which would help with shifter placement and the exhaust. It would have been real nice to throw that Garrett GT37 turbo in there as well :).
 

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Supra_Shopper

Fabricating
May 18, 2006
14
0
0
Florida
www.fquick.com
SySt said:
I am sorry, the Sanderson seem to be the same as the Hooker Headers...

The LS1 Sandersons I got have the collectors slightly offset from center- like between the #3 and #5 port. Maybe the pics I saw of the Hooker LS1s on the Summit website were of the wrong part (wouldn't be the first time). The difference is not that much, but once I got the Sandersons in place I knew the Hookers (as depicted) would never fit.
 

SySt

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Burnsville, Minnesota
I finally got around to grinding the CTS-V exhaust manifolds. The CTS-V manifolds work. I also took a pic of the engine bay as a whole showing my wiring progress...
 

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Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE

SF what a waste of supras
Jun 22, 2006
1,382
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SoCal
www.myspace.com
I think so far from seeing your work and troubles the best thing to do is go dry sump off the get go.

that will help with a lot of clearence issues.
As for the headers maybe buy some aftermarket block huggers but where they have bad bends either cut them at that point and redo it with a mandrel or maybe heat up the tubbing at each runner at a time and re-angle them maybe. but good work guys!

Makes my 1JZ look crappy lol.
allthough it being maybe able to max out at 700hp but for now 555cc will max it at around 575hp and maybe not push more then 15psi in the meantime you guys will have all the toque you need to move that heavy mkiii.

I think GM's are verry reliable but i tend to believe toyota is maybe just a tad bit more reliable but the good old 350 is the best!

I love your work and dedication how much time after doing this one knowing what you know now if you helped us buy guiding us do you think it would take us to build one or if you did it for the second time also about how much total can you calculate this swap to be around time and money wise? that is building one simular to yours but maybe with a dry sump setup from the get go though?
 

SySt

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
629
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Burnsville, Minnesota
Well, an LS1 Longblock with transmission and PCM out of an F-body is usually somewhere around 4k, depending on where you find it. If you used SupraShopper's style mounts and made your own headers you could probably have the swap done for around 5k. Also, a dry sump is not going to help with the pan to rack clearance as the crank to rack clearance is maybe 1/2" more... However I am sure the dry sump system would run you somewhere around $1500.
 

SySt

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Burnsville, Minnesota
I am almost done wiring up my engine harness. I also mounted my fuse block. Oh, and just to clarify I started with only pigtails of each connector and had to solder connects to make up the actual harness. That is why it has taken me so long.

Also, as you can see my girlfriend's VR4 is in the garage again. There's a surprise... I also thought I'd take a couple pics of my daily driver.
 

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SySt

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Burnsville, Minnesota
I got my radiator the other day. The dimensions are 19x27.5x3 inches. Obviously it sits too high in the engine bay so I will need to make my own mounts for it.
 

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SySt

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Burnsville, Minnesota
I am now waiting on finding a flatbed trailer to get my car to Bloomington to have all the welding done. If anyone local can help, please do. Here are pics of it on the ground.
 

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SySt

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
629
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Burnsville, Minnesota
I am nearing completion of all the welding. Here are the latest pics.
 

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