Sneakypete's Bulletproof Powerplant Build
- Thread starter sneakypete
- Start date
I use an impact gun on the damper bolt. I am in Dumont around Hackensack. If you are close and you want some help with things, let me know.
joliroger4;1095443 said:
im trying to do everything according to spec. i feel if i use my impact gun, i wont know if its too tight or not tight enough. last thing i want is to strip the threads on the crank, or have it come loose.
i will be working on getting the clutch situation straightened out tuesday morning. and hopefully i will be able to drop the motor in friday and mount the new intercooler and oil cooler. your more than welcome to stop by. a few other guys on SM will prob be stopping by. the more the merrier.
thanks
-pete
Then you need to fab a crank stop and get a torque wrench that will operate to that value. I use the imact gun and some red loctite to avoid the hassle and I've had zero problems doing it this way. You wont strip or crossthread the bolt if you start it by hand, but by all means, use whichever way you want.
what i did to stop the crank was put a screwdriver through the hole in the flywheel so when it turns, the screwdriver hit the motor. i read somewhere that using anti-seize lubricant on the pulley and bolt is a good idea if you ever want to take it off.
i guess i will buy or rent a bigger torque wrench.
i guess i will buy or rent a bigger torque wrench.
pretty much done assembling everything. just waiting for some aeroquip fittings to come in tomorrow for the oil cooler system. got the clutch, flywheel and tranny on, along with the rest of the necessary accessories for the motor to go in. tonight i painted a few brackets and ill pop them on tomorrow night.
still waiting for my suprasport shortshifter to come. its been a few weeks. apparently fedex "lost" suprasports order and jack was gonna get one dropshipped directly to me.. but that was 2 weeks ago.
friday the motor is gonna get dropped in.... for real this time. a bunch of guys here on the forums might be stopping by... if anyone else local wants to come, shoot me a pm.
-pete
still waiting for my suprasport shortshifter to come. its been a few weeks. apparently fedex "lost" suprasports order and jack was gonna get one dropshipped directly to me.. but that was 2 weeks ago.
friday the motor is gonna get dropped in.... for real this time. a bunch of guys here on the forums might be stopping by... if anyone else local wants to come, shoot me a pm.
-pete
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those belts are a BITCH to put on... there much harder on the supra then they were for my friends eclipse... best of luck to you! and nice build!
when i did my crank pulley bolt, i use a piece of metal that goes from my flywheel to a transmission bolt hole, and that holes the flywheel while i torque that, and then i torque the front crank dampner... worked like a charm to 195! (but going that high is a bitch all in its own) hope that helps.
when i did my crank pulley bolt, i use a piece of metal that goes from my flywheel to a transmission bolt hole, and that holes the flywheel while i torque that, and then i torque the front crank dampner... worked like a charm to 195! (but going that high is a bitch all in its own) hope that helps.
crank stop is simple.
use a 2 X 4 with the oil pan off.
a dude on here said he used the rope in cylinder method.
use a 2 X 4 with the oil pan off.
a dude on here said he used the rope in cylinder method.
Using the rope trick to change valve seals is good...using it to torque the crank is bad.
The 2x4 to stop the crank is much preferred.
The 2x4 to stop the crank is much preferred.
Rennat;1099667 said:
you have a torque wrench that goes up that high? mine only goes to 100. so i torqued it to 100 for now. the tranny is on, so i'll have to wait till its in the car to torque it the rest of the way (if i can find someone with a bigger wrench).
jdub: i have a few questions about the break in.
you recommended using straight 30 weight non synthetic oil. i picked up some non-detergent 30weight from napa. do i want non-detergent, or detergent oil for the break-in period?
should i use the trasko filter during break-in, or just regular wix filters?
thanks
-pete
you recommended using straight 30 weight non synthetic oil. i picked up some non-detergent 30weight from napa. do i want non-detergent, or detergent oil for the break-in period?
should i use the trasko filter during break-in, or just regular wix filters?
thanks
-pete
Theres a saying that goes "torque specs are for people who dont know what tight is." Which, eh, is true alot of the time but when it comes to headbolts and rod and main caps you'd definately want to torque those right. A powersteering line though, just tighten it.sneakypete;1099920 said:
As for the Gates belt, its not that bad to get on. You're supposed to LOOSEN the tensioner before you put a timing belt on!
sneakypete;1099892 said:
Don't skimp on this go and buy a wrench if you can't borrow one as it has the potential to totally fuck your motor if the bolt backs out in use (and it will at 100 ft/lbs)
I've seen many trashed 7M's with the snout of the crank ruined from a loose damper.
i think tomorrow i will go out and buy one at advanced auto and then return it. i have a good torque wrench, but it doesnt go up that high
update: engine is in. just have to plug in few connectors, mount the intercooler, oil cooler, and new lines, new one piece drive shaft, and some misc piping and wire in the new fans and aluminum fan shroud
update: engine is in. just have to plug in few connectors, mount the intercooler, oil cooler, and new lines, new one piece drive shaft, and some misc piping and wire in the new fans and aluminum fan shroud
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oh yea, and broke a stud off of one of the new poly motor mounts from BIC. ill have to have a word with him....