Sneakypete's Bulletproof Powerplant Build

sneakypete

Regular Member
Jul 18, 2007
1,129
0
0
Central NJ
update:
almost done here. i got the shaftmaster driveshaft in and a new output shaft seal. redline tranny fluid in and the suprasport shifter came in and its installed. bled the clutch. wired the new adreneline efans (yes i know efans arent supposed to be good) and installed the aluminum shroud. all the new ceramic coated manifolds (thanks jdub) are on and tb. ive seemed to misplaced my tps so im waiting for a buddy to lend me one. all the new gauges are installed and wired up the the prosport sandwich plate. i had clearance issues with the remote oil filter mount and the turbo outlet, so i bought the canton 90 degree block adapter.
i tightened down the block adapter the best i can, but it still seems to rotate.... anyone have that problem???

just need to clean off the upper ic piping. i do have a weird problem/concern... i have the cooleeze ic piping, and the lower pipe (turbo to ic) had a patch of rust and a paint bubble on the inside of the pipe. i sanded it down the best i can and painted it with two coats of high temp engine enamel. do you think that will be enough? im kinda worried about it.

all i have left to do is mount up the bigger driftmotion intercooler, get a few new couplers to make it fit, mount the oil cooler and lines. install the bumper and whatnot, and add fluids.
i got straight 30w non-detergent motor oil.... is a non-detergent oil the right choice?
hopefully she will start up with no problems

thanks for everyones help so far

-pete
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
10,730
1
38
Valley of the Sun
What you did to the IC pipe is fine.

I would use a straight 30W HD oil vs a non detergent.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
10,730
1
38
Valley of the Sun
"High Detergent" is a misnomer, but is what you will see on the label. Most non detergent oils have little to no additives, which you need and are API SB oils which do not meet the requirements for a 7M motor (or any other engine made after 1963). The reason for using a straight 30W is to minimize the viscosity improvers in the oil for break-in. You still need the other additives.

What brand and API spec is the oil you have?
 

sneakypete

Regular Member
Jul 18, 2007
1,129
0
0
Central NJ
jdub;1106034 said:
"High Detergent" is a misnomer, but is what you will see on the label. Most non detergent oils have little to no additives, which you need and are API SB oils which do not meet the requirements for a 7M motor (or any other engine made after 1963). The reason for using a straight 30W is to minimize the viscosity improvers in the oil for break-in. You still need the other additives.

What brand and API spec is the oil you have?

its napa brand. ill check the API spec when i get home. ill exchange them for a detergent straight 30 weight on monday. i cant seem to find valvoline straight 30weight anywhere

-pete
 

sneakypete

Regular Member
Jul 18, 2007
1,129
0
0
Central NJ
got the new oil. im having trouble with the aeroquip socketless fittings and hose. i cant get the hose all the way onto the fitting. especially with the 90degree bends.... i dont want to bend the fitting. anyone have any good tips for installation???
-pete
 

sneakypete

Regular Member
Jul 18, 2007
1,129
0
0
Central NJ
ive tried lubing it up, but dont have a good vice. my father has an old carpenters work table with a wooden vise. the vise isnt too sturdy but ill give it a shot.
hopefully ill be up and running tomorrow.
thanks
-pete
 

Jaguar_5

It's ALIVE!
Feb 7, 2006
1,468
0
0
Seattle
Put the hose end in some boiling water for abit to make it more flexible

I just did that, used some lube, placed the hose end on a wood surface, and put all my bodyweight on the hose, just do it ALL at once with one swift STRONG force!

I'm not sure how you cut your hose, but I used a cutting wheel, and regardless, I'd recommend cleaning all the hoses out after you assemble them

I had to take one hose apart and reassemble it, it was impossible to remove by hand, I had to surgically cut it away
 

MK3.0dudeman

brian L.
Mar 12, 2007
1,628
0
0
North Jersey
sneakypete;1100221 said:
i think tomorrow i will go out and buy one at advanced auto and then return it. i have a good torque wrench, but it doesnt go up that high

update: engine is in. just have to plug in few connectors, mount the intercooler, oil cooler, and new lines, new one piece drive shaft, and some misc piping and wire in the new fans and aluminum fan shroud

hey thats my hand lol.

the motor looked great when I saw it.Evevry thing looked like it was going real smooth and looks like it's going to run real smooth.

This motor is so much of a beast it broke a motor mount befor it even got turned over.
 

sneakypete

Regular Member
Jul 18, 2007
1,129
0
0
Central NJ
well..........
everything is installed and connected. had a power steering leak and fixed that. after a shitload of headaches with the new prosport oil pressure gauge (wouldnt register pressure after priming the system), i fired it up and it sounded great. except one big problem.... a massive oil leak coming from under the exhaust manifold. had a flood going down the driveway...
it wasnt from the sandwich plate, canton block adapter, oil return or feed for the turbo, or the dipstick tube. cant find where its coming from. the origin of the leak seems to be from right about where the motor mount bolts to the block. its getting late so im calling it quits for the night.

-pete
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
10,730
1
38
Valley of the Sun
Pete - There's a small block-off plate right below your Canton adapter. If it's not tightened down, it would cause what you describe. It blocks off the main channel from the oil pump leading to the rest of the engine.
 

sneakypete

Regular Member
Jul 18, 2007
1,129
0
0
Central NJ
well... it turns out the cause of the oil leak was right next to the turbo return, i forgot to put in the 1/8" plug that belongs there. i also forgot about the egr in the back of the intake manifold... i make the first run with a huuuge vacuum leak (speed density... thank god).
the car sounded and feels great. i didnt get a chance to set the base tune on the maft pro or set the timing before i went out on the first run, i heard the first 30 minutes were vital. i did pull over to adjust fuel because i was running a tad lean right above cruise. after i got back, i checked the timing and was pretty much dead on. the tune according to maft pro was a bit rough, but its something i need to work on.

cant believe it started on the first try. thanks to everyone who stopped by and gave me a hand (or held the flashlight)... its amazing how an endless supply of beer and pizza can get everyone in the neighborhood to come chill in your driveway until 1 or 2am.

-pete
 

iceberg319

vvti, what?
Apr 6, 2005
328
0
0
NJ
www.cardomain.com
sweeeet, its good to see the beast on the road.....i guess that tps worked for ya??? school starts next week so ill see u on the 7th floor, u kno, supra parking only....can let the domestics take all the spots...hehe

i cant wait till its broken in so u can start having fun :evil5:



ooo i think im gettin rid of my TB cuz it wont work with my new manifold.....u can have it once im sure i dont need it
 
Last edited:

sneakypete

Regular Member
Jul 18, 2007
1,129
0
0
Central NJ
thanks everyone....
still working out a few kinks. small leak from an AN fitting on the oil cooler. today after i drove some more, ive noticed that the motor is a bit choppy... almost as if there is miss. cant seem to get AFR rich enough in the mid to high loads. ive tried setting the base tune on the maft pro, but it seems there is no difference. im gonna try and reset the maft pro to see if that helps.
few questions.
is it normal to burn a bit of oil while breaking in the motor?
how come the oil seems a bit pastey? is that the assembly lube?
there is this noise from under the hood that sounds like clanking (noticed at idle). is that piston slap?

thanks
-pete