I see said the blind man. Good luck with getting everything together. I am hoping to hear my 7m come to life this weekend. The APR Sud kit I got sucked ass to install!
Sneakypete's Bulletproof Powerplant Build
- Thread starter sneakypete
- Start date
yea i think i read about that. they are tricky to get in the first time. good luck with your build
-pete
-pete
sneakypete;1081218 said:
Follow the enclosed "Destructions" that came with it very carefully, these things go on DAMN tight!
I destroyed 2 pullers removing mine for rebuilds.
I also fit mine with AntiSeize to help it come back off when needed.
The Big Bolt needed to be machined to fit so It's a good idea to buy a new one they're not expensive.
IJ.;1081482 said:
i was read the instructions and it doesnt seem to bad. do i attach the AC pulley before or after it torque the damper down?
will i really need to remove the damper for a rebuild every year? i'll prob only be raising the boost a few times during the year for the track, tuning and dynoing. the other 355 days during the year this will be my daily driver.
rich at SIP said he would send me a bolt that wouldnt have to be machined down.... but i guess he forgot. we will see if he sends one soon. but i still ordered a new one from toyota anyway.
-pete
The "service" interval I assume is if you're racing at sanctioned events.
The AC pully can go on anytime, use some 243 Loctite on it's bolts.
Have you contacted Rich about the bolt?
(Vendors aren't mind readers
)
The AC pully can go on anytime, use some 243 Loctite on it's bolts.
Have you contacted Rich about the bolt?
(Vendors aren't mind readers
)
IJ.;1081514 said:The "service" interval I assume is if you're racing at sanctioned events.
The AC pully can go on anytime, use some 243 Loctite on it's bolts.
Have you contacted Rich about the bolt?
(Vendors aren't mind readers
yea i pmed him around noon as soon as soon the package arrived. he hasnt gotten back to me yet. hopefully he can get it to me by friday. hoping to get the motor in by then.
jdub;1081524 said:
cool.... thanks for the tip
ive actually got a question for you about the trasko bypass filter. i cant get the housing open with the provided tool in combination with an oil filter wrench. any tips on getting it open?
thanks
-pete
Did you read the instructions that came with the Trasko?
You have to unscrew the blue nut
Then gently pry the end cap off.
You have to unscrew the blue nut
Then gently pry the end cap off.
oooooh.... i was trying to open the the canister itself. i did read the instructions. for some reason i was determined to open the whole thing.
thanks
thanks
sneakypete;1081638 said:
You know what, the instructions could be worded abit more clearly, because I read them first and still tried to do the same thing! I was determined to unscrew the top part of the housing, even after I removed that nut, and it still would NOT come off! That oring had a hell of a seal on it, until I finally realized it wasn't threaded :biglaugh:
i noticed that the oil pump drive pulley has some in and out play when i turn it counter-clockwise, but when i turn it clockwise, there is no play at all. is this normal? i dont want to put the timing belt on if there is a problem.
-pete
-pete
also, i completely overlooked one other part of this build... the oil squirters. there were installed when the block was cleaned. the previous owner of the block (jblmk3) said it was in good working order when he pulled it from the car.... so i assume the squirters are in ok condition.
just in case, i ordered new bolts (but not squirters) from champion. since there were cleaned with the block, should i soak the squirters for a day or so when i go to install the new bolts?
will i be able to install the new bolts with the crank already installed?
-pete
just in case, i ordered new bolts (but not squirters) from champion. since there were cleaned with the block, should i soak the squirters for a day or so when i go to install the new bolts?
will i be able to install the new bolts with the crank already installed?
-pete
got a lot done yesterday. i will post pics tomorrow.
i had two questions
1) when installing the clutch cover, there are six bolts that have to be torqued. with the action 6 puck that i got, there were plastic rivets in 3 of those holes.... am i suppose to remove them? because i only have 3 holding the clutch cover in
2) as far as torquing the crank pulley, how the hell am i supposed to torque it to 295 n-m? my torque wrench only goes up to 100 n-m.
thanks
-pete
i had two questions
1) when installing the clutch cover, there are six bolts that have to be torqued. with the action 6 puck that i got, there were plastic rivets in 3 of those holes.... am i suppose to remove them? because i only have 3 holding the clutch cover in
2) as far as torquing the crank pulley, how the hell am i supposed to torque it to 295 n-m? my torque wrench only goes up to 100 n-m.
thanks
-pete
ATI does not make that bolt any longer that I was going to get for you. We are out of luck on that. Build looks great BTW! You don't need to rebuild the damper every year. You only need to do that if pushing it beyond the the HP rating every moment of running time.
suprarich;1094977 said:
thanks rich. i got a new bolt from toyota and brought it to my machinist to cut it down.... it fits perfect