Hey Jakie...you have a candien brother too?! sweet, Jeff lange is my long lost canadian brother! thats awesome
so anyways, i feel ya on trusting you car to someone who is qualified in a specific scope of expertise... apparantly, alot of people look to me for MK3/7m/1j. i dunno what thats all about, its not like i know everything. but anyways, the oil pump mod, just take out that big banjo bolt that has a hole drilled in the head of it. go find some washers that fit inside the bolt (its hollow cuz the releif spring seats inside of it) and create a stack of washers that is 10-12mm tall, no more.
also, what you need to do is reset your oil pump pickup head height. take a ruler and a straight edge. measure the depth of your oil pan from the pan rail. i dont remember exactly what it is off the top of my head. then, mount your oil pump like stock but dont mount the pickup tube to the block. measure the distance from the pickup tube head and the oil pan mating surface on the block. smash down the strainer on the pickup head to get an accurate reading. the strainer is about 16mm away from the inlet of the tube. then the strainer is about another 16mm from the bottom of the pan. overall, the inlet of the tube is almost 1.5" away from the bottom of the pan. use a pry bar to bend the pickup tube and make it sit farther from the oil pan mating surface on the block. you want about 10mm of clearance between the bottom of the pan and the inlet of the tube. dont worry about the strainer touching the floor of the pan... no biggie. this will help ensure protection against oil starvation during high lateral G-forces combined w/ low oil levels (ahem, jayson).
if youre feeling REALLY froggy, you can do the -10an oil pump delivery line from the pump to the block... its going to be about $80 in parts. you also better know how to assemble AN hoses and hose ends too. i would get you the link to my writeup... but the search on SF is not cooperating. basically, you need a metric adaptor to -10 male to convert the oil pump to AN hose. use a 90* hose end from the oil pump to point the hose towards the block fitting. i think it takes about 10* of -10 hose to go up and over the pickup tube. now, use a 45* hose end to get the right angle to meet the block fitting. remove the stock comrpessoin to BSPT fitting. replace it w/ a similarly sized 1/2" NPT to -10AN male (i think its 1/2" NPT that will simulate the stock block threads). when you mock up the hose ends and the hose, make sure that it arcs over the pickup tube w/o touching it, but not so far away that it touches the oil pan baffel when the pan is installed. keep in mind, w/ the metric adaptor on the pump and the 90* hose end installed, itll interfere w/ the fitment of the pan. losen up the lock-down bolt on the pump housing and clock the pump as far as itll go. you can get about 10*-12* of movement out of it. unfortunately, this now means the support strut for your pickup head is about 10-12mm offset. the nice thing is that its made of thin sheet metal and can be bent to line back up w/ the bolt hole in the block. find yourself an appropriately sized spacer and a longer 6mm dia. bolt to secure the pickup head to the block.
you should now have your pickup head height reset, a shimmed releif spring, a high volume/low restriction oil delivery hose and a clocked oil pump. your oiling system inside the crankcase is now sorted out... you just need to address the stock GTE oil filter mount w/ integrated oil cooler bypass. check out my more-recent writeup on SF regarding this setup and converting to a relocatoin kit w/ aftermarket oil cooler and elminating the GTE filter mount w/ bypass.
btw, those injectors that you have are MSD 96 lb/hr injectors. i installed a set of those on my friends car. they are definitly larger on the bottom than the typical pintle injectors that we have.
