great work, i really need to do all the suspension bushing in mine.. btw which brand of rack you chose?
Project Git 'er done!: Stages 1, 2…now 3.
- Thread starter supraguy@aol
- Start date
Two weeks and no updates... sorry guys.
But there has been a small bit of progress- most of the powdercoating is done.
Throttle body:
Gloss black:
Wrinkle black:
The only parts left to powder-coat are the upper and lower intake manifolds, and they will be done in black wrinkle as well.
Monday, I'll be dropping off a big bag of clamps, bolts, brackets and miscellaneous to be re-zinc'ed.
But there has been a small bit of progress- most of the powdercoating is done.
Throttle body:
Gloss black:
Wrinkle black:
The only parts left to powder-coat are the upper and lower intake manifolds, and they will be done in black wrinkle as well.
Monday, I'll be dropping off a big bag of clamps, bolts, brackets and miscellaneous to be re-zinc'ed.
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Thanks.
Well, since I had the front inner timing cover done, I could install the oil pan.
Also, I installed an oil pressure switch up front next to the timing cover.
This will activate a warning light and buzzer in the instrument cluster any time pressure falls below 5psi.
...so I'm hoping my warm idle pressure is above 5psi, or this thing's going to drive me batty...
Well, since I had the front inner timing cover done, I could install the oil pan.
Also, I installed an oil pressure switch up front next to the timing cover.
This will activate a warning light and buzzer in the instrument cluster any time pressure falls below 5psi.
...so I'm hoping my warm idle pressure is above 5psi, or this thing's going to drive me batty...
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So today, I did two things-
I dropped off all my stuff for zinc plating, and I pulled the head off my old motor.
I had planned on just cleaning up my head and dropping it on the new motor, but I have some investigating to do first.
Cylinder #5 exhaust port was very oily.
All the cylinder walls look good, with cross-hatching still visible, and only a slight polishing to the left and right sides of the walls.
The valves on #5 also look oily as well:
The valve stem seals were replaced before this head was installed, so I'm not sure if they were failing, or if the rings were leaking on this cylinder.
Aside from this, the Cometic hg looked to be in pretty good shape, and the probe pistons showed no signs of wear or detonation on the crowns.
Tomorrow, I'll tear down the head, and see if there's any issues with the valves, guides or seals.
I dropped off all my stuff for zinc plating, and I pulled the head off my old motor.
I had planned on just cleaning up my head and dropping it on the new motor, but I have some investigating to do first.
Cylinder #5 exhaust port was very oily.
All the cylinder walls look good, with cross-hatching still visible, and only a slight polishing to the left and right sides of the walls.
The valves on #5 also look oily as well:
The valve stem seals were replaced before this head was installed, so I'm not sure if they were failing, or if the rings were leaking on this cylinder.
Aside from this, the Cometic hg looked to be in pretty good shape, and the probe pistons showed no signs of wear or detonation on the crowns.
Tomorrow, I'll tear down the head, and see if there's any issues with the valves, guides or seals.
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Took apart the head...
Thankfully, I found that both exhaust valve stem seals on #5 had popped, and that's where the extra oil burning was coming from.
I also noticed that while the intake stem seals were a pain to pry off the guides, the exhaust seals popped off easy-peasy.
Obviously the extra heat on that side had weakened the seals' grip.
Thankfully, I found that both exhaust valve stem seals on #5 had popped, and that's where the extra oil burning was coming from.
I also noticed that while the intake stem seals were a pain to pry off the guides, the exhaust seals popped off easy-peasy.
Obviously the extra heat on that side had weakened the seals' grip.
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Save problem I had.. except all of mine were having fun riding the valve stem ride at the fair...
LOL.
Just removed all of my helicoils.
One was pulling out slightly, so I decided to go 7/16 with them.
Just removed all of my helicoils.
One was pulling out slightly, so I decided to go 7/16 with them.
150 for everything.
I had about 2 dozen different parts, ranging in size from a tiny spacer for the throttle body shaft spring, to as large as the vacuum tubing manifold that bolts under the front of the intake, and all sorts of bolts, nuts, brackets, clamps, and accessory mounts. It cost $50 for all of it to be chemically cleaned, and $100 for the plating. Thing is, these guys have to physically wire each and every piece up. Hell, i feel bad for only paying $150. In fact, they would have plated more stuff for me for the same price, its just that $100 is their minimum charge, and i ran out of things to hand them.
I get it all back thursday, so you know i'll post up pics.
I had about 2 dozen different parts, ranging in size from a tiny spacer for the throttle body shaft spring, to as large as the vacuum tubing manifold that bolts under the front of the intake, and all sorts of bolts, nuts, brackets, clamps, and accessory mounts. It cost $50 for all of it to be chemically cleaned, and $100 for the plating. Thing is, these guys have to physically wire each and every piece up. Hell, i feel bad for only paying $150. In fact, they would have plated more stuff for me for the same price, its just that $100 is their minimum charge, and i ran out of things to hand them.
I get it all back thursday, so you know i'll post up pics.
I only have one picture for you guys today, my cylinder head's coolant ports:
Unacceptable.
I don't think the head can be milled down far enough to remove the defects around the coolant ports(ALL of the exhaust side, none of the intake side), so I have to begin fresh on my backup head. Tore it down from plug & play to bare valve guides in 25 minutes flat. Before I can build it up, I have to drop it at the shop to have it checked over, and cut for the metal head gasket. Then I'll port&polish, and install the 7/16 exhaust studs.
Unacceptable.
I don't think the head can be milled down far enough to remove the defects around the coolant ports(ALL of the exhaust side, none of the intake side), so I have to begin fresh on my backup head. Tore it down from plug & play to bare valve guides in 25 minutes flat. Before I can build it up, I have to drop it at the shop to have it checked over, and cut for the metal head gasket. Then I'll port&polish, and install the 7/16 exhaust studs.
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My fault.
I used a cheapo coolant, rather than Toyota red.
I kept telling myself i needed to switch back, but i never got around to it.
It took about 5 years to erode to that point.
I used a cheapo coolant, rather than Toyota red.
I kept telling myself i needed to switch back, but i never got around to it.
It took about 5 years to erode to that point.
Well, the head has been dropped off at the machine shop, and I picked up my zinc parts:
Now, every nut, bolt and bracket that hasn't been zinc'ed is going to make the engine bay look horrible, lol.
Now, every nut, bolt and bracket that hasn't been zinc'ed is going to make the engine bay look horrible, lol.
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Soo purtry. 
Just googled a bit and can get bolts black zinc plated. Ima have to look into that for my 91.
Just googled a bit and can get bolts black zinc plated. Ima have to look into that for my 91.