Andre;873035 said:Blue
Andre - I love the SAFC2 mount job up above. Did you custom build that? Have any day time pictures? I'm looking for a way to mount an AVC-R that's on the way.
Post LED clusters and climate controls.
- Thread starter Fletch124
- Start date
Andre - I love the SAFC2 mount job up above. Did you custom build that? Have any day time pictures? I'm looking for a way to mount an AVC-R that's on the way.
These are looking VERY NICE guys!
Keep the pictures coming.
And watch out for my write-up on how to get it done the right way (With pictures and videos)
Keep the pictures coming.
And watch out for my write-up on how to get it done the right way (With pictures and videos)
I'd like to see a write up as well. I was going to make one if no one else does. I also might be doing a write up on tail light tinting and a couple other things.
I think there was someone that did white with the blue lights on top. I'm not 100% sure though
Justin's on the third page
Justin's on the third page
does the dimmer still work after you change the leds on climate control and the bulbs in the gauge cluster?
Kckazdude;919709 said:
Why don't you put the resistors in place of the existing ones? For blue you would change the resistors to incease the output voltage as the stock setup is generally lower than what most blue LEDs take to power on. Putting higher value resistors may turn off the LEDs completely.
How does your dimmer switch react to the blue LEDs now? It is probably max brightness or off?
When it comes to electronics, hard/easy is all relative. Most people don't understand how it works and how to modify existing circuits. Personally changing the LEDs and display is simple but I can understand how some people find it to be overwhelming.
^^
For the LEDs I have, the stock resistor value is just too low. The blue is really bright. Turning the dimmer down to almost off they are almost just right. I havent pulled the CC back to check what is in place yet. One I can pull it down and determine what resistors are in place I will do my math and put the correct ones in.
For the LEDs I have, the stock resistor value is just too low. The blue is really bright. Turning the dimmer down to almost off they are almost just right. I havent pulled the CC back to check what is in place yet. One I can pull it down and determine what resistors are in place I will do my math and put the correct ones in.
BJ91T;920059 said:
I'd like to see one in white, too. I'm thinking about white on the cluster & climate control, and blue for the climate control indicators.
Stock
White LEDs
Has some hot spots that would need to be controlled by using a cooler white.
The best part about the white is that you can still see the red accents.
White LEDs
Has some hot spots that would need to be controlled by using a cooler white.
The best part about the white is that you can still see the red accents.
Hmmmm.........after seeing the white, I'm not so sure anymore. How do you like it, and do you have any more pics or different angles?
I do like the fact that the white keeps all of the red parts of the gauges looking red, and the needles seem to be easier to see then with other colors. How easy is it on the eyes at night? Do you like the white, or do you wish you went with another color?
can you make it so that the numbers are like blue and then the needle is red? or is all gonna be the same?
91supran/a;921986 said:
You can do that with a cluster from speedhut I believe but it costs alot more than buying a few LEDs.
And I haven't "chosen" the white, I just pulled the green sleeves off of the LEDs that were in there just to see. I would like to do blue but don't want to loose the red accents so I think I will try a "cooler" (softer) white. I have not driven the car with the white.
Hey guys I'm having trouble getting the led's because my parents don't trust online stuff but what kind of soldering iron do you guys recommend for this?
The gauge cluster does not require soldering, the bulbs just twist in.
You need to solder to change the climate contol LEDs. As far as soldeing irons go, you want one that is grounded (3 prong cord) and that is 15-30W for woking on the printed circuit board unless you know what you are doing then you can use a stonger iron.
This is what I use:
http://www.tequipment.net/ProductImages/Hakko/936_view2.jpg
You need to solder to change the climate contol LEDs. As far as soldeing irons go, you want one that is grounded (3 prong cord) and that is 15-30W for woking on the printed circuit board unless you know what you are doing then you can use a stonger iron.
This is what I use:
http://www.tequipment.net/ProductImages/Hakko/936_view2.jpg
Kckazdude;919709 said:
Alternatively, you could have used a less bright LED and not have to change any resistors. I used these http://www.eled.com/product.asp?catalog_name=LEDs&Product_ID=E934MBD and they were a nice mild brightness with the stock resistors.