Ok, I guess its my turn
- Thread starter polobai
- Start date
I was wondering if anyone may have a solution to this new problem-after I changed the battery-the car will not rev past 2k. It starts and idles fine, but will not rev past 2k. It did this before and the culprit was the map sensor was not fully plugged into the harness-but this time the map sensor is good. I think it may be the tps-but even with the tps unplugged the car will not rev past 2k. Any ideas?
I'm no electrical expert, but maybe the extra voltage from the 16V battery is the culprit... Maybe it fried something: :dunno:
What's up with the armrest? That thing sticks out like a sore thumb
What's up with the armrest? That thing sticks out like a sore thumb
Thanks for the input, but the 16v battery was dead at the time, so it was only putting out 14 volts (alternator running the car) so I dont think it was excess voltage. I am thinking its something to do with this stupid TPS.... The armrest is actually done in Orange Carbon-but it does look a little wierd-maybe I will wrap it in black suede and expose some of the carbon somehow. Thanks for pointing that out!
2
2jzmk3
Guest
again why are you running a 16v system? is your car setup for that? the revving past 2k, i would say boost leak or map sensor, but if both of those check out fine, then it has to be the maftpro wiring
group a supra
SPAWNING AN INTERCEPTOR
jsut a quick opne dont know if you noticed but with the exception of the last few all your pics have disappeared
Ah, I never notice it was a CF armrest until you said that. Get this: suede cover with skinny oval shaped cuttouts going down the top of it spaced out some, maybe four or five altogether, with an adhesive adhering it to the armrest. Can you picture that? The cuttouts could be slanted too, instead of in a straight line.
sorry about the lack of updates guys, I have been moving into my new house, and will not have internet service for another 3 weeks at least! The sixteen volt battery is jst for the extra juice, should not hurt anything in the car as the wires are at least 12 gauge. I fixed the reving part of the car-it was the tps wiring, just switched up some wires by guess and now its all good. I drove the car to get some gas the other day, drives decent and runs rich into boost, but it runs. The problem now is that I hardly have any brakes-at least not enough to drive safely. The break pedal just sinks to the floor, I ordered a new master cylinder hopin that it is the culprit. If it comes in soon, I will put it on this weekend and find out for sure.
Ok-update time. I fixed the brake problem, the culprit was the master cylinder. I ordered one from www.mrautoparts.com and it was here in a couple days (~$72 shipped!) compared to ~$250 from the stealership. The unit was a genuine ASIN unit also, will all new parts-brake level sensor and all. Now my car should be good to drive, I will make the drive to my new house this weekend and post pics of the new spot for it. I am more confident in the brake system in the car now as it now sports complete new brake system including new master cylinder, new 4 piston Wilwoods up front and rotors, new brake lines for the removal of the abs, rebuilt calipers in the rear, new stainless steel lines all around, and ATE super blue dot 4 brake fluid throughout the whole system.
I took the car out for a spin yesterday but I noticed that it runs into the 20+ psi range of boost and then hits fuel cut. This is how I have the wastegate hooked up: One line goes from the boost controller (profec b)to the middle port on the wastegate, and another goes from the other boost controller port and is "tee'd" off with one end going to the port on top of the wastegate and the other going to the compressor housing. The wastegate is a tial 40 mm with a 1 bar spring, so it should stop at 14 psi. Anyone have any ideas or different ways of setting the wastegate up?