*MHG Reuse*
- Thread starter IJ.
- Start date
IJ. said:
^^^ Yes it is!
IJ - Brake cleaner and/or acetone will take the old viton right off. If you use a scotch bright pad (fine) in combination, it has just enough abrasive action to get it off without harming the steel.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
I've re-used my Greddy 3 layer MHG a total of four times now with zero ill effects.
Cleaned it the first few times with brake cleaner from the dollar store, a can or two should do the job. Just make sure you don't have anything stuck between the layers, and clean off all the sealer from the last time around. (The Greddy MHG is not coated with anything IIRC when new.)
I learned the brake quiet trick from the guys at Final Stage in Vegas. (You know tony, the guy who made 822rwhp last year..)
Brake quiet is superior to copper spray because it's a better sealant, IMHO. It still allows for some movement too when set up.
I coat both sides of the gasket with a nice thick coat of brake quiet. Apply it in two or three thin coats per side, until you have a even coat of brake quiet over the gasket. (You can see the color change as you spray the gasket.) The type does not seem to matter. I've used the blue stuff, and the red.
Let it sit for 10 to 15 min to get nice and tacky.
Do not have head studs in place!! Just a bare head and block is perfect. Make sure there is no oil on the block, or head surfaces.
Run your beads of sealer at the front cover to block junction.
Then lay the gasket down exactly where it's going to stay. (No sliding of the gasket, and don't slap it down in the wrong position, or you get to clean it off again, and re-coat it with brake quiet, clean up the block etc.)
Now carefully place the head onto the gasket. Use the studs to help drop the washers down onto the head, and tourqe your head down.
You should notice a small amount of brake quiet squish out between the head and the block. I like to think that's proving it's sealed up everywhere inside the head the same way.
I've let my engines set for a day before using them, but that was just due to building and installing them time wise. Not sure if it's needed, but it's how they have been done.
Good luck Ian!
Cleaned it the first few times with brake cleaner from the dollar store, a can or two should do the job. Just make sure you don't have anything stuck between the layers, and clean off all the sealer from the last time around. (The Greddy MHG is not coated with anything IIRC when new.)
I learned the brake quiet trick from the guys at Final Stage in Vegas. (You know tony, the guy who made 822rwhp last year..)
Brake quiet is superior to copper spray because it's a better sealant, IMHO. It still allows for some movement too when set up.
I coat both sides of the gasket with a nice thick coat of brake quiet. Apply it in two or three thin coats per side, until you have a even coat of brake quiet over the gasket. (You can see the color change as you spray the gasket.) The type does not seem to matter. I've used the blue stuff, and the red.
Let it sit for 10 to 15 min to get nice and tacky.
Do not have head studs in place!! Just a bare head and block is perfect. Make sure there is no oil on the block, or head surfaces.
Run your beads of sealer at the front cover to block junction.
Then lay the gasket down exactly where it's going to stay. (No sliding of the gasket, and don't slap it down in the wrong position, or you get to clean it off again, and re-coat it with brake quiet, clean up the block etc.)
Now carefully place the head onto the gasket. Use the studs to help drop the washers down onto the head, and tourqe your head down.
You should notice a small amount of brake quiet squish out between the head and the block. I like to think that's proving it's sealed up everywhere inside the head the same way.
I've let my engines set for a day before using them, but that was just due to building and installing them time wise. Not sure if it's needed, but it's how they have been done.
Good luck Ian!
well i just pulled my head of my motor today, and i will not be re-using this titan head gasket, it's burned on the block side, and alot of the viton has come off. just does not look good at all, there are no warp's or any thing in the gasket, just discoloring where the metal has gotten hot from compresison passin it.
my instructor also added, he didn't notice any oil /coolent in the stud's where i had a crack running in my block, he let me know the correct way to have it fix.. or welded. then after thought about using studs he decided i would probaly be alright since there doesn't seem to be coolant pushing through the crack any ways.
my instructor also added, he didn't notice any oil /coolent in the stud's where i had a crack running in my block, he let me know the correct way to have it fix.. or welded. then after thought about using studs he decided i would probaly be alright since there doesn't seem to be coolant pushing through the crack any ways.
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
While the CNC was running code I dismantled my HKS Stopper and dug out a can of Brakleen and had a play!
The Viton seems to go a little hard then comes off fairly easily!
The Viton seems to go a little hard then comes off fairly easily!
i'll bring the camera to school tomorrow, im startin to think there's some thing to be uncovvered.. pic's will be taken tomorrow
i performed a cylinder leakage test and in order 1-6 , 5,5,8,8,5,5%
10% is good and 15-20% is fine for motor's approaching 100k, (atleast my college professor says these are safe every day driver limits..100k )
i performed a cylinder leakage test and in order 1-6 , 5,5,8,8,5,5%
10% is good and 15-20% is fine for motor's approaching 100k, (atleast my college professor says these are safe every day driver limits..100k )
I would try walnut shells in the blast cabinet, or even glass bead. Just make sure to clean it good, obviously.
alright you asked for it, you got it..
those three, are the side that contacts the head.. the head had a finish of 25ra put on it.
my instuctor says, the sliver area's are the spots that had good seal, and where the viton just happened to stick to the head.
now the black area's that seemed abit brunt or discolored, is where the compression was passin through..
of course this was on the block side where i had attempt to hand lap the block by myself with a chnk of 4x4 and hi grit sand paper, obviously this method does not work.. if you are going to hand lap, then a lapping stone and lappin compound is the way to do it,
i guess i did it this way do to lack of understanding what people meant. and what other's have experience, this hg lasted me about 1 month before i started having cooling issues, and my cylinder's are not washed or steamed liek a typlical bhg.
any ways. i also have the crank out, all the bearings are at .038mm for the rods,
and the main's are cap 1-5 .038mm cap 6 had some bearin scratching, but jurnal looked great, it's readin was .051mm i think the scratches threw the plastic gauge, and cap 7 was .038mm
i'll be chekcing for out of round on the crank and rods tomorrow, and i'll be asking questions soon about installin arp rod bolts.. and which to get..
those three, are the side that contacts the head.. the head had a finish of 25ra put on it.
my instuctor says, the sliver area's are the spots that had good seal, and where the viton just happened to stick to the head.
now the black area's that seemed abit brunt or discolored, is where the compression was passin through..
of course this was on the block side where i had attempt to hand lap the block by myself with a chnk of 4x4 and hi grit sand paper, obviously this method does not work.. if you are going to hand lap, then a lapping stone and lappin compound is the way to do it,
i guess i did it this way do to lack of understanding what people meant. and what other's have experience, this hg lasted me about 1 month before i started having cooling issues, and my cylinder's are not washed or steamed liek a typlical bhg.
any ways. i also have the crank out, all the bearings are at .038mm for the rods,
and the main's are cap 1-5 .038mm cap 6 had some bearin scratching, but jurnal looked great, it's readin was .051mm i think the scratches threw the plastic gauge, and cap 7 was .038mm
i'll be chekcing for out of round on the crank and rods tomorrow, and i'll be asking questions soon about installin arp rod bolts.. and which to get..
Ok this is going to ramble a little as I'm a bit chemically affected !
Went out to clean the Viton off my HKS Stopper and following advice given here I took a non scratch pot cleaner and some Brakkleen to it!
I started on the middle layer as it didn't have much stuck to it!
While I was working away at it I noticed that a fingernail worked well once it softened a little with the Brakkleen so grabbed a plastic credit card and used that as a scraper.
This worked okish but I still had to go over it a few times and scrub fairly heavily and being lazy I started thinking..... ALWAYS a bad thing!
I considered bead blasting it but that wouldn't work for the outer layers being so thin they'd deform and be useless, Don't know if it was the fumes from the Brakkleen but after JaV's question about reapplying the Viton my mind went off on a tangent.
I was thinking if I were an engineer designing the Viton product I'd want to be able to use existing tech for application and cleanup and that the product would need to be resistant to "most" chemicals but not all as you'd need to clean the equipment down after a run!
I thought about what it would be subjected to in use ie: Coolant Gas Oil and so on then realised that it would NEVER see Paint Thinner in it's application and that as a Carrier and a Solvent it would be ideal!
Soaked a rag in some and BINGO it disolved the Viton with a little bit of rubbing leaving a clean virgin surface
I have a desktop in my workshop that's Thinner resistant so just laid the sheets down laid the rag over one poured some thinner on gave it a little a rub with the rag and in no time it was done!
Hope this saves people some time and effort!
! Went out to clean the Viton off my HKS Stopper and following advice given here I took a non scratch pot cleaner and some Brakkleen to it!
I started on the middle layer as it didn't have much stuck to it!
While I was working away at it I noticed that a fingernail worked well once it softened a little with the Brakkleen so grabbed a plastic credit card and used that as a scraper.
This worked okish but I still had to go over it a few times and scrub fairly heavily and being lazy I started thinking..... ALWAYS a bad thing!
I considered bead blasting it but that wouldn't work for the outer layers being so thin they'd deform and be useless, Don't know if it was the fumes from the Brakkleen but after JaV's question about reapplying the Viton my mind went off on a tangent.
I was thinking if I were an engineer designing the Viton product I'd want to be able to use existing tech for application and cleanup and that the product would need to be resistant to "most" chemicals but not all as you'd need to clean the equipment down after a run!
I thought about what it would be subjected to in use ie: Coolant Gas Oil and so on then realised that it would NEVER see Paint Thinner in it's application and that as a Carrier and a Solvent it would be ideal!
Soaked a rag in some and BINGO it disolved the Viton with a little bit of rubbing leaving a clean virgin surface
I have a desktop in my workshop that's Thinner resistant so just laid the sheets down laid the rag over one poured some thinner on gave it a little a rub with the rag and in no time it was done!
Hope this saves people some time and effort!
