7M stroker build

[mk3ukr]

I have Eagle "H" beam rods, didn't have to clearence the oil pump drive shaft.

What is your redline?
Maybe I would machine it to larger diameter, but from IJ experience Pauter rods will touch the shaft even at stock stroke. Though he was spinning it to 8500 rpm

 

[mk3ukr]

Apologies if this is a stupid question, but with all the quality gear going into the motor, why are you going with a cometic head gasket? I'm only asking based on what I have heard about them not being recommended for mega hp engines like your.

I'm loving the progress of this build, I had give a stroker a bit of thought myself

AFAIK only HKS stopper is superior to other grommet type gaskets. But stopper comes only in 1.2mm, 2.0mm and 3.0mm thickness.
1.2mm will be too thin for me, with 2.0mm I would have ~ 1.7mm piston to head distance. Cometic gaskets come in range 1.3mm, 1.5mm, etc. I can adjust to my desired 1.0-1.2mm squish.
I have read couple of times that squish something like 1.5-2.0mm (don't remember exact figures) is "no go" area. Don't know explanation to this though.

 

[IJ.]

Only ever saw Stoppers in 2.0mm and 86mm bore versions.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

What is your redline?
Maybe I would machine it to larger diameter, but from IJ experience Pauter rods will touch the shaft even at stock stroke. Though he was spinning it to 8500 rpm

I've seen 7500 on the Maft-Pro logs. Don't think I'd be spinning 8500, but it still seems to want to keep going at 7500.

 

[mk3ukr]

Only ever saw Stoppers in 2.0mm and 86mm bore versions.

Rich told me they make them in 1.2mm size, I never verified it because it is too thin for me. BTW 86mm HG bore is also not ideal for 84mm cylinder - all these hot end gases hide in the crevices and induce detonation. OK, maybe this is small thing, but I try to pay attention to all these small things to make motor more efficient

 

[mk3ukr]

I've seen 7500 on the Maft-Pro logs. Don't think I'd be spinning 8500, but it still seems to want to keep going at 7500.

It's good to know you rev it so high :icon_bigg

Today mocked up crank/rods/pistons assembly to verify sufficient rod to block clearance. Found 2 places where rod was too close. Used putty to check rod beam to cylinder side clearances to make sure I notched block in correct place and deep enough.



Then removed oil gallery plugs, took block to the car wash and washed it with high pressure pump paying special attention to flushing all oil passages. Then washed it with brushes spray gun (compressed air + gasoline)
Today received my locally made fiberglass doors, weight 5.2kg each. I will weigh OEM door later when all internals will be removed

 

[dude4253]

fiberglass doors! :eek2:

 

[OfnaRcR4]

fiberglass doors! :eek2:

X2:aigo::aigo:

 

[IJ.]

No intrusion beams in the Doors?

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

It's good to know you rev it so high :icon_bigg

Don't rev it that high very much, would like to keep things intact

 

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Today received my locally made fiberglass doors, weight 5.2kg each.

I want to see how well they fit, and how much they cost! :evil2:

 

[mk3ukr]

No intrusion beams in the Doors?

No. Ian, this is bare fiberglass shell, OEM doors (at least on my European market Supra) have no dedicated parts inside to protect from side impact.
Maybe they thought power window mechanism will help in case of accident:icon_bigg

 

[mk3ukr]

Don't rev it that high very much, would like to keep things intact

Yeah, high revs kill motors faster then high load.

 

[IJ.]

No. Ian, this is bare fiberglass shell, OEM doors (at least on my European market Supra) have no dedicated parts inside to protect from side impact.
Maybe they thought power window mechanism will help in case of accident:icon_bigg

Ahhh I see

Local delivered cars here have big ass folded beams inside the doors.

 

[mk3ukr]

I want to see how well they fit, and how much they cost! :evil2:

I will pm the price.
They fit just like OEM doors, no difference. I gave now doors to the guy who will prepare them for paint job, convert to manual cranking mechanism and make lightweight door skin. Door skin will be something flat and simple, it won't be so nice as OEM

 

[mk3ukr]

Ahhh I see

Local delivered cars here have big ass folded beams inside the doors.

I didn't know this.

 

[IJ.]

Yep they're some serious beams in our doors, part of bringing a car in from Japan requires retrofitting box section beams (most places make a complete mess of this work)

 

[suprarich]

Rich told me they make them in 1.2mm size, I never verified it because it is too thin for me. BTW 86mm HG bore is also not ideal for 84mm cylinder - all these hot end gases hide in the crevices and induce detonation. OK, maybe this is small thing, but I try to pay attention to all these small things to make motor more efficient

Not 1.2mm Vlad, that is the bead type gasket, the other stopper is a 1.0mm

HKS makes a bead type in 1.2mm 2.0mm and 3.0mm

They also make a Stopper type in 1.0mm and 2.0mm

 

[mk3ukr]

Not 1.2mm Vlad, that is the bead type gasket, the other stopper is a 1.0mm

HKS makes a bead type in 1.2mm 2.0mm and 3.0mm

They also make a Stopper type in 1.0mm and 2.0mm

I see, seems like I mixed up everything in my mind. I wonder if anybody ever used 1.0mm stopper, I guess piston crowns have to be shaved to use it

Today cleaned block one more time with white cloth and WD-40, then gapped piston rings to "turbo/nitrius/supercharged" specs as per CP chart.
Then layed the crankshaft and tightened main cups. So far so good...



Next 2 days I will be busy with some other things and return to my motor on Saturday.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

I think there is suppose to be bolts instead of studs on the main by were the oil pump goes. Something about clearance in that area with studs if I remember right, might want to check it.