7M stroker build

[mk3ukr]

Today in the morning got call from the post office - 2 boxes from Rich arrived. Received Flex-a-lite fan, big AEM dryflow air filter, Clevite bearings, Greddy timing belt and Cometics gasket set



Last year I started having overheating problems, I was fine 2 years with Meziere EWP (electric water pump) and 2 junkyard fans, last year for some reason things were getting worse. I bought Craig Davis EWP and now this Flex-a-lite fan.
I found results of interesting water pumps test done by ARE Cooling
http://www.are.com.au/feat/techt/research&dev.htm
Scroll closer to the bottom of the page - Craig Davis pump beat Meziere, though they are rated about the same.
After my purchase of Craig Davis EWP I learned that they started making racing higher capacity pump :icon_surp

Afternoon changed valve stem seals, looked closer at Ferrea valve spring locator. Why outer spring riding on the outer edge of locator? Why they didn't do locator bigger in diameter. I just want to be sure I don't have mismatched parts



Inner spring



Can somebody confirm please if this is correct shape 7M spring locator?

 

[mk3ukr]

Went to my friend's shop today to see progress of exhaust manifold job. It is nearly ready



Few earlier pictures of 6 into 1 collector. Internals will be made smooth later





And turbo position in the engine bay. It is 2 inches high over the hood line :biglaugh:



All runners are equally long 90 cm.

 

[suprarich]

Vlad - Ian is correct on the polishing. The most it will do is keep build up from collecting for a little longer than an unpolished one. In the end, it will still collect. If you was to run this motor in a class event drag race where the head would come off often then yes a polish would help. But for a street car, it is a waste of money and time.

I sent you the greddy belt instead of the gates racing because the gates are on back order. So free upgrade to a greddy.


Your going to need a hood scoop for that turbo set up!

 

[mk3ukr]

Your going to need a hood scoop for that turbo set up!

I think something like bulge, or maybe reverse scoop (not sure is it correct term in English) for evacuating underhood air. I have to talk to our fiberglass/CF guy to do it. My hood is CF.
I am not sure the bulge or 2 inch high reverse scoop will look nice, most pictures of setups I saw - cut hood and huge compressor sticking out :biglaugh: sucking unfiltered air
I am planning to fabricate big diameter plastic pipe to suck air from where passenger side headlight used to be.

 

[mk3ukr]

Went again to my friend's shop, manifold is ready, they cut firewall to accomodate 5' downpipe.



Also collected from paint shop chromoly tubular front lower arms. They are 2kg lighter each in comparison to stock arms.



Hopefully by the end of next week I will be able to pull the motor and start rebuild job.

 

[IJ.]

I'd be interested in a pair of arms Vlad

 

[supra90turbo]

I'm with Ian. Do a run of control arms to fund the project!

(hi Ian!)

 

[IJ.]

Wow look what the cat dragged in
(do you still have a Mk3 Kurt?)
Vlad: PM me some info and pricing please?

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

I know only about 3 running stroked 7M - engines of Adjuster, figgie and one more guy, he is N/A I beleive. They all don't have problems with cranks AFAIK. Adjuster had problems, but it was manufacturing defect.
With this longer stroke and standard length connecting rod my rod to stroke ratio will be 1.543, which is quite low, but not very low. Some Honda engines have R/S ratio lower then 1.5 (this is unconfirmed info, didn't research it) I read many different opinions about advantages of longer rod engines and disadvantages of short rod. Short rod engines theoretically have higher friction losses due to higher rod angularity in cylinder liner. Cylinder bore wear can be more, but with modern oil it should not be the problem.
Short rod engines also have their own advantages, like higher average piston speed and better breathing abilities with properly matched parts
Generally longer rod engine is safer bet for longetivity, I choose stroker for faster spooling big turbo.

Now about my turbo. I have to admit I didn’t research it properly before ordering it. I decided to order 78mm compressor wheel turbo capable of magic 1000 crank hp. When Rich offered good deal on Turbonetics Y2K I couldn’t miss it. When I received this turbo 2 weeks ago I realized this is all out race unit. It got undivided turbine housing, footprint much larger then standard T4, maybe closer to T6, not sure. Turbine wheel is huge, 89mm exducer, 84 trim, 0.96 a/r housing. Even Garrett 45R has 87mm wheel, though compressor wheel of 45R is 81mm vs. my 78mm.

Y2K footprint vs. T4







Y2K is not water cooled, I asked Turbonetics tech about it, he replied that they opted to have it oil cooled only to have more space for oil jacket which helps to handle high dynamic thrust loading of bearing section.
Gas side outlet is 4.5’, requires special V-band clamp and flange which have to be welded to 5’ downpipe:icon_razz.
And this turbo is heavy, close to 20kg (nearly 45lb)

That NA guy is me When I seen "7M Stroker build" had to check it out.

I have the 7M crank knife edged, it was 5 pounds lighter then the stock.

I have Supertech valves, didn't notice the coating comming off, that sucks.

Good luck with the build, looks good so far.

 

[HKS_TRD]

Awesome build, subcribed.

I had contemplated doing a stroker myself, but I really cant afford any more extras to my build

 

[BlackDevilSupra]

Great build thread. I'm queued to the progress.
Recommend posting pictures on SM rather than Imageshack for better preservation and availability.

 

[mk3ukr]

Wow look what the cat dragged in
(do you still have a Mk3 Kurt?)
Vlad: PM me some info and pricing please?

Sorry for late reply, I was away for 2 days. And I apologize for misinformation - each arm is 2 kg lighter, not 3 kg, I have already edited my previous post. Real weight is 4.227 kg. Stock arm is 6.2 kg ???




Sheet metal parts of these arms are mild steel because fabricator could not find chromoly. Metal traders here want to sell their products in bulk, even chromoly pipes are difficult to find and expensive because there is little demand for this product. Bushings are locally made, they are stiffer then OEM and last same like OEM, that's what I was told. I have bushings made by the same shop all over in my suspension.
Ian, I will PM you the price and more pictures of arms, but they are not cheap.

 

[mk3ukr]

And, guys, thank you for your support

Recommend posting pictures on SM rather than Imageshack for better preservation and availability.

Why not on Imageshack? They have unlimited storage space and I have no intention to delete these pictures in future. I thought it helps to save space on Supracentral server. Please correct me if I am wrong

 

[mk3ukr]

That NA guy is me When I seen "7M Stroker build" had to check it out.

I have the 7M crank knife edged, it was 5 pounds lighter then the stock.

I have Supertech valves, didn't notice the coating comming off, that sucks.

Good luck with the build, looks good so far.

Hey, was that you and your red mk3 on Texas 2003 DVD?
How is your stroker motor doing after all these years?
Thanks for good wishes

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Hey, was that you and your red mk3 on Texas 2003 DVD?
How is your stroker motor doing after all these years?
Thanks for good wishes

Nope, never had my Supra to Texas. Mine is black.

Motor is doing fine, runs great, is used as a daily driver right now by my wife, she get's upset because everybody wants to race her Still only about 15k miles on it. Not sorry I did it, just would have done a few things different that I have learned here as far as building the motor. Didn't know about the expert advice when I rebuilt mine.

Good luck again brother, I'm Hungarian and Chech mixture, probably some gypsy in there somewere

 

[mk3ukr]

Then there is +1 stroked 7M around, total 4
Thanks again, good luck to you and your motor

 

[mk3ukr]

There was not much progress last week, fabricator put it on hold, busy with other urgent order. Promised to continue on my car this Tuesday.
Meanwhile I swapped 3.91 differential back to 3.73. I would like to buy 3.55 ring and pinion for my future auto conversion. Jawsgear don't sell them anymore, looks like I will be stuck with my 3.73 gear.
They cut my hood to keep it closed, compressor housing sticking out about 1 inch. If it was track only car I would leave it like it is




I fitted Flex-a-lite fan with zip ties to radiator. Fan is very nice unit and seals against radiator very well. I don't know how much current it draw and what fuse to use, there was only instalation instruction in the box.



Also cleaned my direct port MW injection filters, they were quite dirty after 3 months of use. During this time I put around 15 gal of liquid through the system

 

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Interesting, I cant wait to see this thing fire up
GL

 

[supraguy@aol]

I used a 30amp relay for each of my two flexalite's. Before I had them wired to directly run off a temp swith, but that would kill the switch in no time. Then I got smart, and went back to stock fan/ clutch/ shroud, and have never regretted it.

 

[mk3ukr]

I used a 30amp relay for each of my two flexalite's.

Found it on the fan box, they pull 19.5 amps current. I think I have to rewire this fan supraguy@aol way - separate 30a fuse and relay and heavy gauge wire for each fan. Too many people have problems with blowing/melting fuses and relays. And I was adviced by electrician to use 4-pin fuse and holder instead of common 2-pin. 4-pin fuse has larger contact surface area and heats up less