2JZ NA-T in my 87T

TurboFreak

NOBAMA
Jan 22, 2006
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hottscennessey said:
oops.. so I managed to wreck my car without it even running yet.

3807009io5.jpg


not too bad.. worst case scenario is I might have a hole in my IC. I don't care.

3807010cv0.jpg


good thing I have the tuck, I'd never be able to move it by myself.
Wait Wait Why hasn't anyone asked what happened here? lol...
 

hottscennessey

DONT BE A BITCH!
Jun 3, 2005
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LOL I was wondering the same thing..

I just wanted to see what would happen.






















It was early.. 8AM, I was tightening up the bolts from the drive shaft to the diff. I put a stick in to hold down the breaks, and I had centerblocks in front of teh wheels. Stupid me let the car down without putting the E-brake back on (I took it off so I could turn the wheels and get to all 4 bolts.) I'd say I got off lucky.
 

TurboFreak

NOBAMA
Jan 22, 2006
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Haha ok ok... Yeah You got lucky sir!

BTW I just read through all 15 pages... Awesome build!!!!!!

PM's coming your way... Very interested in this!!!!!!
 

hottscennessey

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Jun 3, 2005
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I was looking for some help wiring up the Bosch relay for the fuel pump. Is there any way to do it with the stock wiring? I'm really desperate to get this thing running.. I'm so close.
 

jmcboost

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
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If it is a basic relay, I would just use the wire that drives the old (stock) relay to drive the new relay. I am sure you know that, so it must not be an easy relay to wire up. PM me if you need help.
 

RacerXJ220

Interdimensional
Mar 30, 2005
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Abalama
hottscennessey said:
I actually just got my serial adapter in a few minutes ago, I can't wait to get home from work and try it out. Unfortunately I can't even get the FP thing figured out because I can't get the injector O-rings to seal with the GE fuel rail. I'm trying to figure out if I should buy some 7M o-rings or 2JZGE o-rings to make it work. Are the USDM 2JZ Maps over on SF? I didn't see any under the Stinger's preloaded maps. I'd probably have to decode them through AEM right?



I used 7M ones. Seem to work okay. Mind, this is on a 2J-GE rail, on a head, in the other car, that isn't running yet, lol. They fit alright though.

For the Stinger you can try to use the 1J map. The timing maps are all the same, just playing with fuel. You can even use a 7M map someone else may have for whatever size injectors ur using, whatever six cyl motor. Best to pick one with the same mods as you have though, expecially the turbo. Depending on your resolution, it may take a bit to plug the numbers in.


P5150 said:
Is you fuel rail dual-feed? I have to modify my 2j GE fuel rail to run dual inputs with a center return to the FPR. I guess it would depend on the ID of your fuel rail - Ive never seen the one you are using. If you want to measure yours and let me know I will compare it with my GE rail.... I know some people are using the GE rail with dual feed for big HP.

I'm using a 1.5JZ motor, 2JZ-GE bottom, 1JZ head with the 1J rail. Dual feed on the 2J-GE fuel rail will support crazy HP, as you know! Unfortunatly, the 1J/2J rails don't give too many options.
 

RacerXJ220

Interdimensional
Mar 30, 2005
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jmcboost said:
If it is a basic relay, I would just use the wire that drives the old (stock) relay to drive the new relay. I am sure you know that, so it must not be an easy relay to wire up. PM me if you need help.

Sorry, but you're going to need a new relay, set for ground switch. not bad at all. You can reuse some of the wires, but I'd recommend replacing the + wire with something larger, and straight to the battery (yeah I'm a huge fan of it). If you go to autozone, O'RLY's, Advanced auto, you can buy a relay. They have instructions on the back, not too difficult. Best way to test it is to install it, and turn the ignition key on (once the settings are made in the software for output X). The Stinger will power the fuel pump for 4 seconds, then wait for the ignition key to go to start.

It took about an hour with me taking my sweet time, dropping the tank, running the wires, wiring up the relay, and testing it. All by my lonesome. You can do it! Just remember the Stinger triggers relays with a ground or (-), meaning that wire grounds, which then causes the relay to trigger, hence, u needing a new relay :)
 

hottscennessey

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Jun 3, 2005
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Okay, after about 2 hours of playing with things, I finally figured it out.. yet I've still gone nowhere.

the positive is everything for the fuel pump is set properly. (I think)

The negative.. for some reason when I turn my ignition to "ON" the stinger is getting an RPM signal... from where I do not know. BTW its reading 392 RPMS as soon as the ignition is switch on. The engine isn't moving btw ;)

This is why my FP isn't purging, and just staying on. I guess this also means the injectors have been flooding the engine since the stinger thinks theres an RPM signal.
 
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hottscennessey

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Jun 3, 2005
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Is this a CPS?!? My 2JZ is 95' at the oldest.

cs001ov4.jpg


if you can't tell its by the alternator and water pump.

cs002fd9.jpg


this plug leads down to the lower crankcase cover.. soo... is it?! :) Maybe I can use this instead of the 7M CPS??? please say yes..
 

RacerXJ220

Interdimensional
Mar 30, 2005
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Weird!

I would recheck your wiring. Sounds like you have one or two in the wrong areas on your CPS.


EDIT: No, you cannot use a 2JZ/1JZ 12 point wheel on the crank position sensor without the cam syncs found on the 1/2JZ-GTE models located on the intake side of the head (unless you somehow make you own sync), because you can't tell the EMS when #1 is TDC (i.e. missing tooth, sync). You have to use the 7M cam position sensor, or do what I did and install a magnetic sensor and 36-1 wheel on your crank pulley :)

GE models don't have a crank position sensor or 12 point wheel on the crank. If yours does, then whooptie do, someone swapped the oil pump out for you, but it's still useless!
 

hottscennessey

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Jun 3, 2005
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Ahhh, I see. Thanks RXJ.

I'll re-check everything later tonight. I hope its something simple.. but even if it's not.. big deal. New CPS. I just don't like to wait.
 

hottscennessey

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Jun 3, 2005
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I'm sure there are a lot of people with opinions on this, I just use gas and a clean rag to clean them (externaly only, of course), and store them in either a clean rag, or some paper in a box just to keep them together.
 

hottscennessey

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Jun 3, 2005
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I found out my fuel pump problem.. just so anyone following knows. The CPS's internal wiring was shorting out.. causing a reading of 394 RPM when the motor wasn't moving. The Stinger EMS was seeing this, and sending the signal to the fuel pump relay, to turn on the fuel pump. Re-wiring it solved the problem of the RPM's being off, and the fuel pump prime is now functioning properly (with the stock relay, which I'll ditch later. On to the next hurdle.
 

hottscennessey

DONT BE A BITCH!
Jun 3, 2005
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hottscennessey said:
I found out my fuel pump problem.. just so anyone following knows. The CPS's internal wiring was shorting out.. causing a reading of 394 RPM when the motor wasn't moving. The Stinger EMS was seeing this, and sending the signal to the fuel pump relay, to turn on the fuel pump. Re-wiring it solved the problem of the RPM's being off, and the fuel pump prime is now functioning properly (with the stock relay, which I'll ditch later. On to the next hurdle.


Damn.. it worked lastnight. I got the car all ready to be started up tonight, and sure enough the CPS is reading 394 RPM's again. WTF. I guess I'm just going to buy another one.