2JZ NA-T in my 87T
- Thread starter hottscennessey
- Start date
It happened once when I had the 7M, 26 PSI boost spike as well actually.. but I was tuned for 22PSI at the time.. if I hadn't been.. like lastnight, I'm pretty sure something would have let go on a 7M.
The Stinger can monitor boost, and I believe it can control boost with the correct solenoid. It has a programable boost cut feature (like the stock ECU's fuel cut). I'm running a Blitz SBC-ID boost controller, which I think is far superior to anything else I've ever used, so I won't be looking further into the Stinger's boost solenoid.
Here is more info on the Blitz SBC-ID III:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19140
Here is more info on the Blitz SBC-ID III:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19140
My car is really feeling fast. I've never said that about my car before. It's awesome. AFR's are nice and rich, I'll lean them out a little bit too. I'm revving to 7.2k RPM's right now and its gnarly. Boost is seriously instant, I'd highly recommend the MP T70.
Problems:
-Throttle sticking open
-Slipping clutch
Solution:
=I'll try to rig up a spring to put more tension on closing the TB
=Ordered Stg 3 Clutch from Driftmotion
Problems:
-Throttle sticking open
-Slipping clutch
Solution:
=I'll try to rig up a spring to put more tension on closing the TB
=Ordered Stg 3 Clutch from Driftmotion
hottscennessey said:
I would consider not going with the single plate high pressure clutch. Many a crank walk has occurred that way. I would just spend the money and get a multi plate
p5150 said:
Damn, I already ordered it. Why exactly does it happen? Does it happen becasue of an ammount of horsepower or a style of driving? How long does crank walk take for it to happen?
jmcboost said:
I'm only running 10 PSI, and creeping to like 11.5 PSI. I can't really tell how much power I'm putting down, because the clutch just slips on me. It definately feels fast.. it just gets up and goes, the spool is insanely responsive, and the torque is very liniar, it doesn't kick you in the back (IE: 7M).
The throttle isn't sticking after all, I'm just not used to a slipping clutch.
When you push the clutch pedal in it pulls on the pressure plate which is directly connected to the crankshaft. The thrust washer takes all of this force. Its a pretty dinky non-pressure lubricated (splash and runoff lubricated) bearing surface. HP really isnt a factor.
Look for crank walk on the MKIV section of SF. You have the same bottom end.
You can either increase the clamping force or increase surface area to increase the torque rating of a clutch. Clamping force is the cheaper option.
Look for crank walk on the MKIV section of SF. You have the same bottom end.
You can either increase the clamping force or increase surface area to increase the torque rating of a clutch. Clamping force is the cheaper option.
P5150:Thanks, I'm seriously a newb when it comes to clutches and just drivetrain in general. You said that the cheaper way to increase the torque rating is to increase the clamping force, is this as easy as an aftermarket PP
Edit: just read through a lot of info on Supraforums about crank walk. That's pretty scary. It sucks I just ordered that new clutch. What really sucks is the price of the multi-plate. I wish I knew this before I got my car running and cranked foreverrr and everrr with the clutch held in. Ahh this makes me so paranoid. Like I already said, I'm a newb to clutches, what makes the twinplate different?
Has anyone ever done a clutch without a car lift? Is it really a PITA or not that bad? I'd be doin it with 4 jackstands and a floor jack, is it possible? I'm going to drop the tranny, I don't feel like pulling the engine right now.
Edit: just read through a lot of info on Supraforums about crank walk. That's pretty scary. It sucks I just ordered that new clutch. What really sucks is the price of the multi-plate. I wish I knew this before I got my car running and cranked foreverrr and everrr with the clutch held in. Ahh this makes me so paranoid. Like I already said, I'm a newb to clutches, what makes the twinplate different?
Has anyone ever done a clutch without a car lift? Is it really a PITA or not that bad? I'd be doin it with 4 jackstands and a floor jack, is it possible? I'm going to drop the tranny, I don't feel like pulling the engine right now.
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We are not selling the 3500lb clutches some people do, ours is a 2800lb with a sprung 6 puck, and you will not have crank walk problems. It's the same specs as the TRD pressure plate used to be, and the same as the ACT. We have them on a bunch of 1jz, 2jz, and 7m engines and have never had a crank walk problem. Plan on spending at least $1500 for a twin plate. Also, twin plate clutches do not slip well, and they put a lot of shock load on your drivetrain. Plan on breaking everything behind the clutch, including the diff, crossmember, and possibly the trans. I would only put a twin plate on a race car, or a car that only gets driven for fun and/or is not a daily driver.
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A lot of guys run the triple plate carbon clutches on SF and say that they drive like stock. Single, Twin, Triple etc, the engagement of the clutch depends on the construction of the friction discs (materials/sprung/etc) and not necessarially the amount of plates.
Some of the unsprung OS giken clutches look like they would be pretty harsh, but I have heard a lot of good things about the carbon multi plate clutches. Thats why I shelled out the cash for one.
Some of the unsprung OS giken clutches look like they would be pretty harsh, but I have heard a lot of good things about the carbon multi plate clutches. Thats why I shelled out the cash for one.
bigaaron said:
I agree with you on that - I dont think that 2800lb is too much for a clutch. If thats the plate he got I think he will be OK. Whats the stock rating like 2400-2500 lbs?
A sprung disc is good too because it isnt so harsh on your drivetrain.
But, he should be sure that he bypasses the clutch safety start switch and doesnt ride it for long periods of time at intersections, etc.
I just wanted the durability of a carbon clutch and the ability to run 800 hp through it without worrying. And/or 600-700 frequently without killing it.
Oh - and pulling the tranny is pretty easy - it helps to loosen the motor mounts so that the engine can be rocked backwards to access the top bellhousing bolts.
Thanks for all the input guys, I went ahead and did the clutch switch bypass. I'm glad that's over with, getting under there was a PITA. I'll post some pictures soon, I cleaned up a couple things in my engine bay.
Thanks man 
It's definately different. It's really revv happy.. and hey.. so am I :evil2:
Pics and Vids to come... I'll really get some good vids after I get the clutch installed.
It's definately different. It's really revv happy.. and hey.. so am I :evil2: Pics and Vids to come... I'll really get some good vids after I get the clutch installed.
hottscennessey said:Thanks man
Pics and Vids to come... I'll really get some good vids after I get the clutch installed.
woo woo thats what ive been waiting for.
i went and picked up my engine from USF on friday.i am so excited.