2JZ NA-T in my 87T

p5150

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
0
36
Central Idaho
Looks like it IS supposed to be connected directly to the battery via relay. I dont know if it will make a difference or not.... I connected my EMS power to the EFI relay behind the battery. The AEM is kind of wierd though.

The switched 12 v goes into the AEM from the key, and the AEM sends a signal to the relay to open and give it its primary 12v source to run everything. In a sense, it turns on its own relay.

Yours is a bit different though. I guess you could use your AC relay run direct from the battery for the WB but I dont know if it will make a difference. I would just make sure that your relay is pulling direct from the battery. The EFI relay would be a good choice.
 
hottscennessey

hottscennessey

DONT BE A BITCH!
Jun 3, 2005
3,137
0
36
37
Richmond, VA
Yea, I'm going to give it a shot. It can't hurt at this point. If not, the only problem really, is that the AFR's seem to be richer than they should be, but I am getting a corresponding AFR signal for whatever I'm doing. Idle/Cruise = rich, lean on decel as usual.
 
p5150

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
0
36
Central Idaho
And food for thought: If you are consistently running rich and requiring a substantial amout of leaning out in order to get the AFRs right, you may need to tell the computer that the injectors are a bit larger than your setting is. I think that PT rates their injectors at a 90% duty cycle and RC rates them at 75% but im not sure about that. Do you see where im going with this?

Also, how are you managing your fuel pressure?
 
hottscennessey

hottscennessey

DONT BE A BITCH!
Jun 3, 2005
3,137
0
36
37
Richmond, VA
I was thinking the same thing. There is no way to set or calibrate the injector size unfortunately.
I can lean it, be rich.. lean it, be wayyyyyy lean (car won't run). Thats with me adjusting the fuel manually too.. and I'm talking about small incriments on a Map with very high resolution

I'm running an Aeromotive AFPR, fed by a Walboro FP.
 
p5150

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
0
36
Central Idaho
Ok, so the stinger can automatically compensate. Did you actually measure the resistance of the injectors with an ohmmeter?

And doesnt the stinger batch fire injectors? Are you compensating for the change in resistance for them being wired in series?

And what brand are they?
 
hottscennessey

hottscennessey

DONT BE A BITCH!
Jun 3, 2005
3,137
0
36
37
Richmond, VA
Yea, I measured the resistance w/ an ohmmeter.

I think you're right, the stinger is batch. No, I havn't compensated for them being in a series.

They're Lucas/PTE I believe
 
p5150

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
0
36
Central Idaho
Im really not sure if that will solve your problem completely or not, but sometimes problems are a combination of contributors....
 
p5150

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
0
36
Central Idaho
hottscennessey said:
According to the TSRM it says that the resistance between +B and the other terminals should be 3ohms, so is the setting 3ohm right for the injectors in the Stinger?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=111

(My injectors are wired up just like they were for the stock 7M ECU)
Click to expand...

Are you still using the resistor pack? That link just describes how to check the resistor pack and doesnt include the fuel injectors. The easiest way to check would be to unplug the harness and test each circuit with an ohmmeter where it plugs into the ECU. It will take you 5 minutes.
 
p5150

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
0
36
Central Idaho
Ok, so according to the stinger wire diagram the circuit basically goes like this:

+12 source -> resistor pack -> injectors -> ecu pin 10, 20, or 30 (as per what you said). Looking at the wire diagram you posted the ecu uses pins 23, 12, 11, or 24 to control it.

I dont understand why you measured it from ground. I think you should put one test lead on the pin for the injector circuit you are testing (w/harness unplugged from the stinger) and place the other test lead at the batt + with the relay on. This will tell you the resistance of the entire circuit. That is what you should set the value at on the Stinger, right?

There shouldnt be any continuity with ground from the injector circuit because the EMS uses a switched ground to activate the injector. If you have continuity from your injector wires to chassis ground and the EMS is unplugged that could be part of your problem.
 
p5150

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
0
36
Central Idaho
p5150 said:
Ok, so according to the stinger wire diagram the circuit basically goes like this:

+12 source -> resistor pack -> injectors -> ecu pin 10, 20, or 30 (as per what you said). Looking at the wire diagram you posted the ecu uses pins 23, 12, 11, or 24 to control it.

I dont understand why you measured it from ground. I think you should put one test lead on the pin for the injector circuit you are testing (w/harness unplugged from the stinger) and place the other test lead at the batt + with the relay on. This will tell you the resistance of the entire circuit. That is what you should set the value at on the Stinger, right?

There shouldnt be any continuity with ground from the injector circuit because the EMS uses a switched ground to activate the injector. If you have continuity from your injector wires to chassis ground and the EMS is unplugged that could be part of your problem.
Click to expand...

I just read the Stinger manual and it said to do what I suggested *edit* it doest say to do exactly what I suggested but it also doesnt account for the fact that a resistor pack will be wired up in the circuit. You have to measure out the circuit to get the correct resistance:

You can do a test by using a Multi-Meter. Unplug the electrical harness off one of the injectors and place the Multi-Meter's probes on the injector pin outs (where the electrical harness clips on) and measure the resistance. When you have a reading adjust the Ecu to the closest setting.
 
Last edited:
hottscennessey

hottscennessey

DONT BE A BITCH!
Jun 3, 2005
3,137
0
36
37
Richmond, VA
Thanks again for all the info, its definately a big help. I'm such a newb with wiring/electrical.

On a good note, I got the car cruising pretty well.. and the AFR's are looking where they should be. It turns out that the settings on the stinger were just conflicting with eachother.. as it turns out the "acceleration enrichment" feature was making things kinda shakey. Now I've got a great idle, cruise etc. :) This is with no "cold cranking %", and no closed loop operation.

I've been driving the car everywhere.. which I swore I wouldn't.. but I can't help it. It's just so great to have it back up and running. This thing is awesome :) The car runs like its on the stock ECU again, but without the crappy KV idle. The car will be tuned for WOT within the next week, and I'll get it on the dyno soon and really see where I stand.

New pics are needed, I've now got the front bumper back on with a new support (thanks tubbie). I'm loving the way the new front mount looks, I actually like it better than my old setup (see sig).

Does anyone know if the 1JZ valve covers fit the 2JZ? I hate the 2JZGE valve covers and I'm having a hard time sourceing some 2JZGTE valve covers. This is probably a question for Jeff (Racerxj) since he has both motors at his disposal.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom