2JZ NA-T in my 87T

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
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Central Idaho
Way to go brotha - Ive got to ask though - where did you get the idea from to go 2jzge-t? I think I got the idea from clubna-t or something.... I dont remember because its been awhile.
 

RacerXJ220

Interdimensional
Mar 30, 2005
1,504
0
0
Abalama
p5150 said:
Way to go brotha - Ive got to ask though - where did you get the idea from to go 2jzge-t? I think I got the idea from clubna-t or something.... I dont remember because its been awhile.

RIIIIIIIIIIIIGHT ;)
 

hottscennessey

DONT BE A BITCH!
Jun 3, 2005
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Richmond, VA
i got the idea when I was 7M searching for intake manifolds and I saw turbo manifold for the 2JZGE.. it really got me thinking. Then I stumbled across the information about the 7M CPS fitting into the 2JZGE head. I posted a thread here about running the 2JZGE off 7M electronics, thinking it was a completely original idea lol. Come to figure out people had already thought about it, and supra87/T4 had already started his project. That thread pointed me to clubna-t.com where i saw how sucessful people have run their 2JZGE's and I decided why the hell not :)
 

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
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Central Idaho
Right on - Im glad I have gone with the 2jnat swap as well. If things go to hell with this shortblock because of an accidental 45psi or something then I can get a cheap core..... Swap... KaPow!
 

supra87t/t4

Phase Two
Apr 9, 2005
219
0
0
MPLS, MN
Congrats, keep the updates coming. I'm pretty sure I originally read the idea from DaveH quite awhile ago, but I still can't find the thread that talked about it, probably lost due to sites getting hacked or whatever. Without Dave's results I'm sure most people wouldn't give the 2JZNA-T half the credit it deserves and probably none of us would be doing this now. There was an SF thread linked in the "2JZGE idea" thread that had some of the original brainstorming on this concept (the 7M wiring part, without that it's not much different than any other JZ swap) That was over a year ago and not long after that I started looking for an Engine for my swap.
 

supra87t/t4

Phase Two
Apr 9, 2005
219
0
0
MPLS, MN
Haha, good question, I was just thinking about that. I've got 4 different MKIII's to work on right now this one is basically just a science project. It's been a few weeks since I've even looked at it. I'm still going to take the project in baby steps so I want to get the engine put back in the car and drive it around in NA form just to make sure everything is happy before I delve into the NA-T part. Off the top of my head I need to figure out my coils/plug wires (debating the IS300 coil swap still) figure out all the vacuum lines, EGR blockoff, etc figure out the radiator and heater hoses, figure out a cheap temporary intake pipe (home depot here I come). That should be enough to get it driveable. I'm keeping the W58 and the stock 87T ECU so the sweet spot on that setup is only about 300RWHP, pretty measly by most people's standards these days, I think I'm probably going to do it on E85 with no intercooler as well just to check one more thing off my "for fun" to do list, no real reason just cause I want to try it out.
 

hottscennessey

DONT BE A BITCH!
Jun 3, 2005
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yea, man. I think it should be a fun project, and 300HP isn't bad at all.. you could always just make a super-responsive setup instead of the lag monster high hp projects that most people go for.

I'd definately recommend the IS300 coils.. thats what i did and they fit/work great. I could not for the life of me find a way to properly mount the 7M coils.. even w/ a FFIM and no Y-pipe on the valve covers.
 

arz

Arizona Performance
Nov 14, 2005
955
0
0
Mesa, AZ
www.ArizonaPerformance.com
Awesome thread!!! more post like this is what I always look for. I understand what you mean but dont know the feeling, I built another 7M, my 4th one. All the others were quickey slap togethers or ghetto rebuilds, but since I spent serious money and time on this rebuild I am so paranoid of problems.

I know Forged pistons and rods arent a gaurntee that something cant go wrong. Even if it is percieved, the feeling that your motor is reliable is a great feeling.
 

hottscennessey

DONT BE A BITCH!
Jun 3, 2005
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Richmond, VA
Yea man, there really is nothing like that feeling. It's great. pretty soon I'll have to start saving money for a backup motor. It can't hurt to have a backup :).


Today i tried tuning again.. I started with BigAaron's 7M map and didn't really get anywhere with it. I switched to the 1JZ map, trimed it so it would run, and took it out for a spin. Much better.

I'm having problems with my AFR's being all over the place, its really annoying me. I take out so much fuel, but my AFR's are still rich. I finally take out infinity% of fuel, and get a 14.7 AFR. The car runs like crap and won't hold an idle. What gives? I'm starting to think that my WBO2 sensor is fubared, because I really can't think of anything else. The car should be happy at 14.7 @ idle.. and the timing is set with a timing light, and in the stinger to 10*BTDC.
 

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
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36
Central Idaho
How do you have your WB sensor wired up? Please forgive me if the following doesnt help:

It pulls a considerable amount of current, and relies on a steady voltage so I think the + should run to the battery so it doesnt change with lights on, stereo on etc.

It should be grounded to the chassis (not the ECU) and the output wire should be the only one connected to the ECU. Some people try wiring a WB ground to the "sensor ground" on the AEM; I know this isnt an AEM but im sure some things are similar. The sensor ground is for stuff like a TPS, MAP or temp sensor.

I would also look at the grounds for your ECU. I grounded mine in multiple places (under dash, block and chassis w/batt-) Ensure other parts of your car are grounded and bonded well. Just get some crimp connectors and some reasonably thick wire and bond things together. Make sure you clean the surface for the connector before you install the wire.

Engine - Chassis; Alternator Frame - Engine Block; Transmission - Chassis; Batt Neg - Chassis (just some ideas) Also run resistor-type plugs to reduce RF emissions if you arent already. RF emissions can give your computer false readings. Thats why the MKIV harness had shielded cable on the knock and, you guessed it, AFR O2 sensor wires.
 

hottscennessey

DONT BE A BITCH!
Jun 3, 2005
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Thanks! Thats great info. I'll have to give that a shot. I just had it comming on with the ignition switch, and grounded with ECU grounds. I'll try that.
 

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
0
36
Central Idaho
hottscennessey said:
Thanks! Thats great info. I'll have to give that a shot. I just had it comming on with the ignition switch, and grounded with ECU grounds. I'll try that.

I dont know if you WB has a built in relay - maybe you could use one of your AC relays under the fuse block in the engine bay to turn it on/off with the key and connect it directly through the battery. What are the wires on the WB?
 

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
1,176
0
36
Central Idaho
Yeah, I think that 25A is plenty.

Do you have a sensor controller? Is there one built into the EMS?

Are you sure that your ox sensor is compatable with the EMS? My AEM UEGO gauge w/built in controller has wires that run directly from the gauge/sensor. Some of the AEM computers have controllers built into them but I dont know about the Stinger..... These wires running from the controller/sensor should not be cut or modified because the gauge is calibrated with them. There are 4 additional wires from the gauge:

Red - +12v
Black - Ground
White - Analog output (connects to any auxillary unit that accepts a 0-5v input)
Blue - Serial Output (connects to a RS-232 com port for hyper-terminal data logging)

The only wire I have going to the EMS is the White one. From your description it sounds like you arent set up for a WB because you dont have a controller.
 

hottscennessey

DONT BE A BITCH!
Jun 3, 2005
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36
37
Richmond, VA
p5150 said:
Yeah, I think that 25A is plenty.

Do you have a sensor controller? Is there one built into the EMS?

Are you sure that your ox sensor is compatable with the EMS? My AEM UEGO gauge w/built in controller has wires that run directly from the gauge/sensor. Some of the AEM computers have controllers built into them but I dont know about the Stinger..... These wires running from the controller/sensor should not be cut or modified because the gauge is calibrated with them. There are 4 additional wires from the gauge:

Red - +12v
Black - Ground
White - Analog output (connects to any auxillary unit that accepts a 0-5v input)
Blue - Serial Output (connects to a RS-232 com port for hyper-terminal data logging)

The only wire I have going to the EMS is the White one. From your description it sounds like you arent set up for a WB because you dont have a controller.

The Stinger has a built in controller, but only for the 4 wire controller

stingerdiagramzh3.jpg