200RWHP
- Thread starter lil_dcb7
- Start date
I'd rather have a lot less things to break on my car than if I were to go turbo. I have no time or patience to be worrying about tracking down boost leaks and various other issues.
Tanya: For a Mk3 if it's less than 7.0L na I'm not interestedTanya said:It won't be anything you guys would be interested in putting into your mk3s, but fun n/a power anyway
Ma70.Ent said:
There was talk awhile back about making a stroked crank, not sure whatever happened to that. It was like a 97mm stroke IIRC. I calculated that a 97mm stroke with a 84.5mm bore would be a 3.3 liter engine, lol. But that bore is MAXING it out at .060", if you can even go that far.
CRE said:I agree, I just operate under the assumption that people aren't going to use common sense... something demonstrated all too often. I wasn't trying to say you were wrong, but merely clarify what I thought needed to be for all those special someones. :naughty:
Let's play this another way... which is lighter? GE + W58 or GE + R154
The stock airbox IS a cold air intake... have a close look. It's not terribly restrictive either. The only thing that kills the stock airbox ir using cheap, poorly flowing filters in it.
Now the VAF, that's another story...
Lightweight flywheel will help reduce losses, doesn't actually make any more power but helps you see that a little more actually make it to the wheels.
Is a stage 2 clutch really any lighter? If not don't bother, You haven't done a thing yet to actually make more power... the stocker will work just fine.
A couple other helpful things are: lighter wheels, one piece driveshaft, new gear oil in the transmission and diff., maintain proper tire pressure, get an alignment (even if it "feels fine"), replace the forward undercoverS (there are 3).
If you want to go overboard: new wheel bearings, check brake pad clearances when they're free, check the clearances of the parking brake pads when free.
Then, I'd probably start the mods with deleting the VAF... I hate that thing.
First and foremost I should warn you that I have a really bad chest cold and I'm on some good OTC drugs so before warned. This reply was brought to you by NyQuil, the nighttime, sniffling, sneezing, coughing, aching, fever, best sleep you ever got with a cold because you woke up and found your ass on the bathroom floor medicine.
The stage 2 clutch wasn't a weight saver but to combat drivetrain loss. A lighten flywheel and stage 2 clutch will allow you to transfer more torque to the rear wheels making for better acceleration. I think we agree on that point.
A one piece driveshaft is asking for trouble when you take in consideration the rear suspension travel. One pieces are restricted in movement and can cause more trouble than it's worth. As for a lighten drive shafts I wish I still had mine from my 1974 AMC Javelin. The motor-trans combo had enough power to twist the shaft and turn the rear diff into a grenade.
But with any motor swap, take the cost of the motor and double that for rebuild kits and parts. The best mod for any used motor swap is a complete rebuild. I would still rebuild the motor even if I just pulled the motor out of the car and I saw it run. It's the hidden problems that come back and bite you in your ass and take your wallet with it.
Let's not go overboard with the mods even though a brake and suspension check would be in order for safety sake. I agree the a GE with a w58 would be lighter but not geared as high as a R154.
But to put this thread back on subject we will go with a W58. What could be done to make a 7MGE put 200 to the wheels. I would start off with getting the head checked then machined. PNP and shaved either .020 or .030. Put in some 264@.50 cams with Comp Cams SBC inner springs and adjustable cam gears. A metal HG with ARP bolts. An intake with a K&N filter. And probably a custom header.
Now for the bottom end. Naturally have it checked out for warping, cracks, and other defects. Punch it out .030 over with 10:1 pistons, forged rods, stroked .010/.010 crank, lighten flywheel, stage2 or higher clutch. I know I'm forgetting some things but the NyQuil is making me sleepy...
Damn! 10% alcohol in this stuff.... sorry A.D.D. moment. With this dose I'm outta here.
Peace and Engine Grease
heres a stoker kit for the 7m
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/strokerkits_toyota2.html
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/strokerkits_toyota2.html
Ma70.Ent said:
I'ver read the article on another forum about the piston speed. That's why I went with a mild .010/.010 stroked crank. The crank in my motor is the lighter 6M crank. It's a risk I'm willing to take.
When modifying a motor you decrease the longevity and reliability of the motor. Toyota spent years designing and building the 7M and we in the matter of hours throw all their R&D right out the window. Modifying motors comes down to two words. Acceptable risks. How far are we willing to go to risk engine life and reliabiliy for the sake of HP.
labrat469 said:
Here are some posts that'll help others from SF. The thread is this: http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470952
Adjuster said:
figgie said:
IJ. said:
IJ. said:
figgie said:
IJ. said:
There we go. That's the good info from that thread.
labrat469 said:
The diff in the Supra doesn't move. Its bolted directly to the subframe, which is bolted to the body. Full four wheel independent suspension.
That being said, there are both pro's and con's to the one piece d.s. Pinion angle would be something to consider(I've checked it, it's pretty straight). There is a vendor here, however, who is offering a lightened two piece drive shaft now(There's two threads on it in the general forums section). Personally, I have a D.S.S. one piece, and like it. I think it could go 1/2" further into the trans., but it's still a good fit. The most important thing I would tell people is to use new lockwashers, and lock-tite the nuts and bolts.
I love anti-na people, yes going turbo is a more cost effective to get power. Guess what, the supra isnt the most cost effective car to be getting power out of to begin with.
Some people just want na for whatever reason or the other just as people choose the supra over some other car.
...I plan on going turbo though ha, only after the rest of the car is setup to handle the power though.
Some people just want na for whatever reason or the other just as people choose the supra over some other car.
...I plan on going turbo though ha, only after the rest of the car is setup to handle the power though.
Yes! Somebody finally brought up the reason why I don't go turbo.
Maintenance Cost
It doesn't matter how much power you put out either forced induction or NA if your car is always in the shop. Going turbo or using nitrous or high compression is the quickest way to find the weakest link in a motor. Time and time again I see people in such a rush to make alot of power they don't think about the stress that they are putting on the motor. What risks are you willing to take to achieve your goal. And are the risks worth the time and money you are going to spend maintaining the motor you've built.
Going turbo is NOT the cheapest way to make power when you add build costs and maintenance costs. Basically put Horse Power Costs. Not only in part costs but in maintenance costs. The more you do to a motor the more that can go wrong. Seriously now, go read the turbo forum and see what goes wrong on their cars and the problems they have maintaining their cars. Yes, the NA cars have their problems but not as many as the turbo cars.
The cheapest way to make power is the "fast gas"; Nitrous. For less than the cost of a GTE you could drop in a nitrous sysem and still make more power than a stock GTE. Some people consider using nitrous as cheating because it's temporary horse power. But as my friend says Nitrous is like a hot woman with a STD you know you want to hit it but you're afraid of the consequences. Does the means out weigh the risks.
Peace and Engine Grease
Maintenance Cost
It doesn't matter how much power you put out either forced induction or NA if your car is always in the shop. Going turbo or using nitrous or high compression is the quickest way to find the weakest link in a motor. Time and time again I see people in such a rush to make alot of power they don't think about the stress that they are putting on the motor. What risks are you willing to take to achieve your goal. And are the risks worth the time and money you are going to spend maintaining the motor you've built.
Going turbo is NOT the cheapest way to make power when you add build costs and maintenance costs. Basically put Horse Power Costs. Not only in part costs but in maintenance costs. The more you do to a motor the more that can go wrong. Seriously now, go read the turbo forum and see what goes wrong on their cars and the problems they have maintaining their cars. Yes, the NA cars have their problems but not as many as the turbo cars.
The cheapest way to make power is the "fast gas"; Nitrous. For less than the cost of a GTE you could drop in a nitrous sysem and still make more power than a stock GTE. Some people consider using nitrous as cheating because it's temporary horse power. But as my friend says Nitrous is like a hot woman with a STD you know you want to hit it but you're afraid of the consequences. Does the means out weigh the risks.
Peace and Engine Grease