200RWHP
- Thread starter lil_dcb7
- Start date
Why are you guys baging on the idea i mean u cant really say anything about it till you try it. i mean its got a money back garuntee. if i get it and its a POS then ill send it back simple! but anyway if i do it insteed of runin a piggy back couldent i just retard the timeing like turboin a na engine? i mean wouldent really solve fuel problems but it would stop detenation!
Is it amps*volts=watts?
If so, then 700watts/12volts=58.3333 amps.
The stock alternator is rated at 70 amps, iirc.
Maybe you could retard the timing enough to stop detonation. Then your just running real lean. No biggie, right??
That's supposing it actually works....
If so, then 700watts/12volts=58.3333 amps.
The stock alternator is rated at 70 amps, iirc.
Maybe you could retard the timing enough to stop detonation. Then your just running real lean. No biggie, right??
That's supposing it actually works....
um it says 700 watts and mine has been upgraded b4 i bought it it says 125amps on it i think im not sure its covered up right now and i dont want to uncover it. anyway ill look tomorow. but i mean it would run lean yeah. i mean i want to swap the motor but im 16 and workin the a$$ of for insurance plus dad is a master tech for toyota well used to be and he is a nazi and wont let me swap but i mean ill keep u posted if i even do it.
o here is the forum were the guy tested it and the numbers http://www.electricsupercharger.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5
thanks for the input i mean its worth a try but no one can really be a dick about it till they tryed it!
heres a good pic of one guy put up that his looked like when he got it http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2006142381694332266
o here is the forum were the guy tested it and the numbers http://www.electricsupercharger.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5
thanks for the input i mean its worth a try but no one can really be a dick about it till they tryed it!
heres a good pic of one guy put up that his looked like when he got it http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2006142381694332266
If you lean out, you loose an engine! It is the electric age Hybrid car this and that. Do it let us know, but if you aren't smart about it. It's on you! Make sure the fuel is there, at least get a fuel pump. Just don't slap the thing on and back of the timming and call it good. Then you are going to have a build thread going. Prep your car like you are going for a 50 shot, then you may have a chance if something goes wrong.
yeah thats true i sould at least do a fuel pump im thinkin mayb ill just by it and presure test it first if i dont get wat there sayin i wont even bother doin it and just send it back.
I agree. Those things don't work. Period. Some of us can be dicks about it because we paid attention in science class. He should do the same.
Hey, what was it like being 16? Was it as scary and helpless as he makes it sound? Wish I could remember
Hey, what was it like being 16? Was it as scary and helpless as he makes it sound? Wish I could remember
16 here, not experiencing anything like that.
Look dude, several people just clearly stated it's not going to help in any way, shape, or form. Ignoring the fact that it could very seriously hurt (aka destroy) your motor, why spend $100 on some useless POS? I'm working two jobs and $100 still isn't too easy to come by.
Look dude, several people just clearly stated it's not going to help in any way, shape, or form. Ignoring the fact that it could very seriously hurt (aka destroy) your motor, why spend $100 on some useless POS? I'm working two jobs and $100 still isn't too easy to come by.
Still shoveling it I see...you posted a one and a half horsepower difference-pathetic no gain- a year apart, with that change. Over a crushed bent exhaust, the worst kind.AGlobalThreat;865106 said:
A quality 3 inch exahust will shift the torque up in the RPM range. 200 rwhp is feasible without breaking the bank. These low hp cars sound like they have problems, besides the old age and worn out.
OfnaRcR4;865576 said:
If you listed the mph, we could closely guess the hp needed to run that 15.89. 88-89 mph is about 180 rwhp in a 3650 car with driver.
Horse power cost money before, during, and after the build. Save the money from these cheap mods and put it toward rebuilding the motor. You will find out that it's the little things inside the motor that will come back and ass rape you over the hood of your car. The best mod to start out with is a fresh rebuild.
I'm going to try and help you get around your dad's "NO MODS!" policy. Here are some excuses ...err reasons you can use on your dad for getting a rebuild.
1) Better fuel economy.
2) Improved reliability
3) Cheaper than buying you another car (Most of the time).
If your dad is willing to help pay for the rebuild here is how you can sneak some things past him. He's probably against any and all external mods. So what does that leave you in the modding department. Internal mods. Remember the motor is almost 20 years old and will probably need some work done and replacement parts. And you are just trying to make the motor just as strong and reliable as it was. Just don't go overboard on the mods.
Let's start with the head. Here are some plausible reasons you can used
Shaving the head: To correct any warping from years of heating and cooling.
Porting and Polishing: To remove carbon build up around the valves and ports allowing better air flow.
Stronger springs: To prevent valves and pistons meeting each other because you know that one day you will mis-shift and over-rev the motor by mistake.
ARP bolts: To replace the stock ones with stronger bolts to help prevent BHG's from the head moving during the heating and cooling
Now for the block.
Boring out the cylinders: The cylinder walls were tapered and need to be bored out a little.
Over sized pistons and rings: To properly fit the new bore of the motor because of the tapered walls.
When buying your rebuild kit make sure that it comes with the modified parts you need. And remember your two best friends are the guy doing the work on your motor and the guy selling you the parts you need.
(Why do I feel like Eddie Haskel from "Leave it to Beaver".......)
(cue music)
I'm going to try and help you get around your dad's "NO MODS!" policy. Here are some excuses ...err reasons you can use on your dad for getting a rebuild.
1) Better fuel economy.
2) Improved reliability
3) Cheaper than buying you another car (Most of the time).
If your dad is willing to help pay for the rebuild here is how you can sneak some things past him. He's probably against any and all external mods. So what does that leave you in the modding department. Internal mods. Remember the motor is almost 20 years old and will probably need some work done and replacement parts. And you are just trying to make the motor just as strong and reliable as it was. Just don't go overboard on the mods.
Let's start with the head. Here are some plausible reasons you can used
Shaving the head: To correct any warping from years of heating and cooling.
Porting and Polishing: To remove carbon build up around the valves and ports allowing better air flow.
Stronger springs: To prevent valves and pistons meeting each other because you know that one day you will mis-shift and over-rev the motor by mistake.
ARP bolts: To replace the stock ones with stronger bolts to help prevent BHG's from the head moving during the heating and cooling
Now for the block.
Boring out the cylinders: The cylinder walls were tapered and need to be bored out a little.
Over sized pistons and rings: To properly fit the new bore of the motor because of the tapered walls.
When buying your rebuild kit make sure that it comes with the modified parts you need. And remember your two best friends are the guy doing the work on your motor and the guy selling you the parts you need.
(Why do I feel like Eddie Haskel from "Leave it to Beaver".......)
(cue music)
Maybe we should get this guy to post on supramania......
http://rides.sportcompactcarweb.com/ride/1007534/texas-cressida/1989/toyota/cressida/index.html
http://rides.sportcompactcarweb.com/ride/1007534/texas-cressida/1989/toyota/cressida/index.html
Im sure you would need an aftermarket set of cams to do that. Get a few more RPMs out of it. the stock head and valves seem fine enough. just need to find a way to make power at 7000 rpms and your there lol
AGlobalThreat said:
Nick M;918248 said:
Sorry but no that wasn't me. I'm speaking from experience
Ass.
AJ'S 88NA;949002 said:Takes a lot more than a set of cams.
I meant, all the bolt ons that he was planning and cams on top of it all. Just in a "thats how far youll have to go" way
come on
I am on my third yes third N/A motor in my 89 supra.
The first motor was knocking when I got it I opted for a jdm replacement it ran fine. My "old" mechanic apparntly used the same oil pump out of the motor with rod knock well that didnt go to well car never had more then 20psi of oil and it went the way of the dodo also. So now I just installed my third N/A motor it is also jdm out of a cressida but it works fine I have a new oil pump a $200 oilpump it is running fine and works perfectly I have walked on a few little hondas that should have had me by the power to weight numbers and I like what I have right now.
I am on my third yes third N/A motor in my 89 supra.
The first motor was knocking when I got it I opted for a jdm replacement it ran fine. My "old" mechanic apparntly used the same oil pump out of the motor with rod knock well that didnt go to well car never had more then 20psi of oil and it went the way of the dodo also. So now I just installed my third N/A motor it is also jdm out of a cressida but it works fine I have a new oil pump a $200 oilpump it is running fine and works perfectly I have walked on a few little hondas that should have had me by the power to weight numbers and I like what I have right now.