Search results

Are you asking me where my map sensor is? Mine is at the end of the intake manifold. By pressure sender do you mean boost gauge sensor? My swap came from a supra that had the digital dash and it had a boost gauge sensor. Don't quote me, but I'm pretty sure that all factory turbo supras came...

Knock sensor was also the first thing that came to mind for the plug he's pointing to in the first picture. As for the connector in the second pic, it could also be a vac/boost sensor for the boost gauge in the dash. A way to tell is by the color of the wires coming off of the connector...

Did they all stop working at the same time? I noticed that you have a 1jz swap. How long has it been in there? Maybe it was just a matter of time before some wires got shorted out due to the harness rewiring.(?) Also, I've had a problem with each of the window switches not working and it...

:thumbup::thumbup: Also, Toyota would charge you an arm and a let for that SST.

The fuse for the windows is the 7.5Amp GAUGE fuse and it's located behind the kick-panel on the left of the driver side floor. That fuse is also tied into the instrument cluster, back-up lights, the check engine light, defogger and several other things, so if your gauges and reverse lights...

When I first bought my supra and it was N/A the muffler had a leak so I replaced it with pacesetter because I didn't have much money to spend. On my car it kinda droned and sounded like it had an exhaust leak. Also, I don't know if something broke off inside the muffler or just made its way in...

I see. Probably won't do anything. I don't even think you can see the wheel bearing unless you pull the hub. Meh, no harm no foul.::toothless::

Yeah, sometimes I can tend to say a little too much which can make a simple thing confusing, especially directions(terrible).:biglaugh:

That's exactly what I said in just a little more detail. I was just making sure that nothing got broken. The cap is pretty thin plastic and the knurled section that the arm fits on can be stripped if care is not taken when installing it.

Don't loosen that nut. Take the plastic cover off by lightly pulling on the sides and then up on the end of the cover, it should come off pretty easily. There will be a nut holding the wiper on, should be 12mm if I remember right. The wiper arm should come off and then just reposition it on...

I didn't think that you could repack the wheel bearings. Aren't they a sealed double ball bearing?

Yeah, if I remember correctly, when you have the rear wheels off the ground and turn the driveshaft both wheels will turn the same direction, but if you only turn one wheel they'll turn in opposite directions. Unlike a clutch-pack LSD in which both wheels will turn the same direction.

You mean a clutch-pack LSD (?) because the Torsen diff is also an LSD.

Since when did a 7M ever have a 7200 or 7500 RPM redline? Rev cut maybe.

I don't understand why someone would try to install it the "normal" way. I've R&I'd a W58 and an R154 on mine and to me the R154 is way easier. The clutch and pressure plate are already attached to the input shaft so all you have to do is stick the tip of the input shaft into the pilot bearing...

Timing light skips around? Did you short out the TE1 and E1 pins on the check connector to put it in base timing?