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I would lean toward Cat, but just as a fair warning, if a exhaust valve is stuck open, it would give you the same symptoms.

I tested my system with nothing more than a air compressor and a couple of caps off a spray paint cans! lol. I found the cap to be about the right size to cover the hose going into the 3000 pipe, put a nipple on another cap (just drilled a small hole and apoxied a nipple into the hole) and...

I have to agree with thevork... WAY too little info given to provide any guesses. From what you've said, it could be anything from a bad fuel pump to a busted timming belt or anything between. Sorry dude... need more info.

First off... sorry about droppin this thread in the wrong section. My Bad. (blushing) Second, I realize that it's not real accurate and I am in NO way sugesting this method is as good as a Dyno and it DOES have several drawbacks... It doesn't RECORD data... the graph shows about 10 sec...

When you use Tricorder, be sure to switch your Acceleration window from Absolute mode to Relative mode by touching the Vector area of your screen. You can also change the scale of the graph. If you find another prog out there that does anything like this, please let me know.

I recently upgraded to the T-Mobile G1 phone running the new Android software (a linux based OS that is open source) Now, one might ask... "WTF does this have to do with my Supra?" Well, the G1 has a built in accelerometer (sp?) and software downloads out the wazzoo! One such application...

I had the same thing after my rebuild. Never could find it until I stumbled across the codes. Adjusted the TPS and that was the end of it.

I agree with Poodles... removal from the block would be easiest, although I've never done it that way! lmao I always pull the oil lines from the turbo (12mm with about a foot worth of extentions from under the car) Once you get the nuts off, I've found the lines still like to catch on the...

I see the diffrent points of view on this one... I have to lean toward the black... so long as you get EVERYTHING!

OMG COOP! I LOVE your tag line there! Mind if I steal it and throw it on Myspace!?!?!? (oh hell, laughing so hard it hurts! Takes me back to my Navy days!)

And try rotating your CPS 180. If your getting fire then I would think your CPS connection is good... Also, have you checked compression?

I would be REAL worried about the price... Any knocking from deep down? Oil and water look clean? That's a damn sharp looking ride for that price! I gave 1200 for my 91 7M-GTE with a spun main and BHG... still think I got a hell of a deal though! lol

OK folks... crisis is over. I hated to do it, but I just got a CT-26 on Ebay for $120. The Diesel upgrade will have to go on the back burner for now, but the thread isn't dead.

WOW... I wouldn't have expected THIS much responce from the thread! lol FYI... Yes, I'm low on cash and in a world of hurt... My CT-26 turbo is shot and Yes, I could just get a replacement and go "Stock Tried and True"... but my thought on the matter, if I'm gona dump money into it, and...

The more I look at it, I think your right. I've not been able to find any stats on boost of any motors running this turbo, but even at over twice the RPM of the 11+ LTR motor, I would still only have about HALF the airflow through the hot end... Assuming we get a streight scale of LPM of air...

Well Viper, yes and no. I am seriously considering this crazy stupid idea. I think I can get the hot side to bolt right too the manafold with a simple redrilling of 4 holes. My Downpipe I'm gona' have to come up with some hella' ideas, and the cold side would be a easy to hook up. CYFI...

OK... First post so please be nice. lol 5 Months ago I gave $1200 for my 91' with a spun main. During the overhaul I replaced the crank, ported and polished the head, replaced every gasket and every seal, EXCEPT for the hardened rubber seal on my MAF. ***NOTE*** Chunks of 18 year old...