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Good idea, it will be well received on ricerforums everywhere. I wouldn't want something as critical as a radiator hanging out in front of the car where one small rock could cause a big coolant leak, but I don't think that the type of customer that would buy this would have a clue anyways. But...

Have you used it to know it's not? :biglaugh:

Why are people using their correction amount from their fuel management system to try to say that the injectors are not flowing what the data sheet obviously says they are flowing? The ones we had flow tested were the same injectors people said were 550cc, and they were NOT 550cc. There is no...

The Innovate LM-1 can directly interface with the Stinger. It can be calibrated too, which is a very good feature. It has two outputs you can configure to run a gauge or to go to a stock ecu to replace the stock narrowband sensor. I really like the Zeitronix zt-2 software for data logging...

I didn't do that, it's was a customer's engine we tore down to rebuild. That's what happens when you drive it for a long time with a loose crank pulley bolt. The timing belt drive gear had variable timing like it was VTEC! :biglaugh:

If you don't have a thermostat the engine will run HOTTER. Never run it without a thermostat. And never run it without a fan.

If it looks like this I feel bad for you:

Nice! Good choice coming here, we're a lot more mk3 friendly.

If the pulley has wear in the keyway, replace it. I would get new keys too. If the crank itself has worn keyways, you're basically screwed. The crank would need to be welded and have new keyway's cut into it. The engine would need to be completely disassembled. If you can't get it repaired...

Two flat head screwdrivers can get it done. What I have used before was a ring separator, like they make for piston rings. But you still need the press down to snap that ring into the groove once you get it over the edge of the throw out bearing.

No way, you have a 1jz, so the standard laws of physics don't apply. :biglaugh: 20 psi on 93 octane is better then 20 psi on 91 octane. I don't think you have any issues with pinging so you should be ok.

I think he means closed loop, but I wouldn't use that feature even if it had it.

Yes and no :icon_bigg Up to a point. When I was running a 50trim c26 it made 370whp and 395tq at about 20psi on 91 octane. When the boost was increased to 25psi it made 370whp. :biglaugh: In that case there was increased pressure, but no increase in flow. Also, if you are running a stock ecu...

That is very true, it's easy to get hung up on boost numbers that are pretty much meaningless, when the goal is to make more horsepower with less boost. But in this case, since he can't go below 20psi because he has a 20psi wg spring, he wanted to know if it would be ok. 20psi is too much...

I would say that 17-18 is about the max to be safe with 91 octane and a big turbo.

I have been looking into carrying their Twin-Fire ignition system too, but it had some issues and it's going through a redesign.

I pretty much discounted hydroplaning as the real cause of the accident from the beginning. And 255 isn't even wide, I don't run less then a 275 on the back of mine, but that's mostly because a 225 would just light up in a straight line in dry weather. And I didn't call him an idiot, you...

I want my short stroke 7m to say "7m-jzte". :biglaugh:

That's terrible. :( Two words that will help keep any turbocharged engine alive: Preventative Maintenance Every time I have someone walk in the shop and ask "how big a turbo can we put on my engine?" or "what would it take to make 500whp?", the first thing out of my mouth is "have you...

Do you really believe that good 255 width wet weather tire will hydroplane before a cheap bald stock tire will? I think that "my car hydroplaned" is more often used an an excuse for "I lost control of my vehicle because I was driving much too fast for the road conditions". It's not easy to...