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Just thought I'd add another pic to this. Just got a new Toy; '92 4Runner w/3vze, 4x4 of course :D I'm not planning on more than 31s, trans cooler, and a rear locker. :sonic:

Sounds like a boost leak to me. Any codes? Does it run good off boost?

Where did you hear that you need more spark? I could be wrong but I was under the impression that the 7M has a more than adequate ignition energy. Anyway, it'll be interesting to see how it works for you.

Need to bypass the neutral safety switch....super easy from what I've read in the last two minutes (did a search on SF ;) ) ONE OF THOUSANDS OF AUTO TO 5SPD THREADS

U-joint maybe? I don't know what would happen, exactly, if you started stripping out those splines but it would be easy to check if it's not your ujoint. It would only cost you a few quarts of gear oil. What kind of grinding sound is it making? Is it a clunky sounding grind or more of a...

It could be from the turbo. Is there oil all throughout the IC piping? If so then it's the turbo.

I would use a minumum 3/8" for the flange, 1/2" would be better. What kind of equipment is she using? If it's tig or mig then it's pretty easy. Stick is a bit harder on thin stuff but doable. I managed to weld my IC pipes with a little AC stick machine but it wasn't fun. Be careful with...

Wow, pretty relentless problem.... How do you have your fuel pump wired up? If you still have it using the resistor pack, try disconnecting the resistor pack and jumping the pump wiring so it has constant 12V. Pretty much a shot in the dark.....you've gone through a lot of different checks...

I'm running a Greddy b spec II and boost is inconsistent. For example: After the engine is warm I'll go WOT and hit ~13 psi (or whatever I had it set for) but after a few hard pulls I'll only get 11.5-12. I could also be set at 12 and get 10 after a few hard pulls. I have to crank the duty...

I think it's slightly shorter than stock (not much if any). The throw is much shorter. I like it.

You would need the MAF between the throttle body and BOV and also the line that goes to the ISC needs to be btw the MAF and the TB.

He's talking about SupraSTORE not suprasport.

Bummer man. You should get a MHG though. Hope you get it back on the road soon.

lol....just a pet peeve of mine. ;)

Just FYI: It's a HEADER ('exhaust manifold' is much less redneck, IMO). 'Headers' is plural and indicates multiple heads, ie a V engine (v6, v8, v10, v12). The same goes for those who say they got their 7m "Heads redone". :squint:

I really do think it's an afm-ecu connectivity problem. That's my best guess from what you've stated. How does it behave when you drive it? If my guess is accurate then driving would be very difficult. Idling is totally different. It's just tough to diagnose these kind of things without...

I eliminated my ps a few months into owning my supe (early 2002). It was developing the usual leak, I was a major newb, and I didn't feel like dealing with it. I bridged the input and output lines on the rack (involved some hacking) and it works great. The rack is still wet (still has fluid...

It probably wasn't the best idea to install your piggy-backs before you solved your code 31. That aside, have you hit the afm harness with your multimeter? You could have a broken connection there at the plug. Also, what does your exhaust look like? I'd expect sooty emissions from an afm...

Also, make sure #1 is on the compression stroke if you need to reset the CPS. You can verify that by looking through the oil fill hole. You'll see the cam lobe pointing up and toward the exhaust side of the engine.

Oil plus maybe you lost a little too much clearance as a freshly ground valve settled into the freshly ground seat. It wouldn't be a bad idea to check your cam to shim clearances but it's probably not necessary.