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Without dissassembly, I would try water misting to clean up the carbon build-up if you are really that worried about it. I don't know what the norm is but the engines I've cracked open all had carbon build-up, even my own after only ~800 miles of operation after a rebuild. IMO, if it's thick...

It seems like you are missing the correct CPS tooth and setting it either one too advanced or one too retarded. Have you tried adjusting the CPS while installed to try and get the right timing (10 degrees BTDC with the diagnostic block properly jumpered)?

I concur. I don't think you'll see fuel cut unless your WG is shimmed. Also, I am not entirely happy with my profec bspec II. I always have to adjust the damn thing. One day I'll be getting 14psi and the next day, 12.

If you are swapping the harness and the ECU you should be good to go. New seals are a good idea. Fresh oil and a new clutch would be good too.

Try replacing your O2 sensor. Do you still have the stock downpipe/cats?

I just can't believe you actually tasted your oil to diagnose a problem... :yumyum: Turbo seals or excessive blowby.

3rd and 4th image down. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/ra/RA_59.html

3rd and 4th image down.

Try locking/unlocking your car using the key on the drivers door. Then try to start it. If that doesn't work, try the same procedure with the passenger door. Have you tried jump starting it?

I guess I missed that part...heh. Does Sinclair still have 93 octane? I used to feed my car that when I was stationed at Tinker (OKC). I have to say, that turbo looks much better polished and with the coated hot side and mani. :bigthumb:

That's pretty impressive- sp61gt + 15psi = nearly 400rwhp! I'm assuming the 740lbs/ft is an error of some sort.

I concur.

I'd say that or the worn center support bearing.

Is your factory TDS (theft deterrent system) bypassed/disabled?

It sort of sounds like you don't have the fork positioned correctly on the throwout hub. The fork is supposed to pull on the hub when the pedal is pushed in, disengaging the pressure plate from the disc/flywheel. When you let the pedal out, the PP "springs back" and reengages the clutch disc.

I pretty much figured that's what you were trying to say. A little clarification never hurt anyone though. :)

Good luck spooling that turbo or making any torque on that 2.5l! :rofl: j/k in case the sarcasm wasn't apparent

That will do it. Personally, I don't think that many tacks are needed for this application. I would just divide it into four sections, weld one section, hit the opposite side, and then do the same with the last two. Oh, and don't take Mr. Bell's word as gospel. :D

and what does a turbo do to air?

Cherish those brief moments on the road. Later, or sooner, you will learn to appreciate the honorable work of turning a wrench late into the night/morning. :D