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Nice. I'm more of a "pick a good path" than "smash the truck 'til it gets up" type of driver anyway. I don't think I have a need for 4.7 gears so I was also considering dual stockers. I almost had an extra t-case for $30 a few days ago but the deal fell through. I'm still on 4:10 gears, which is...

I still want pics. LOL. :)

: insert "this thread is worthless without pics" smiley :

LOL, thankfully only two of them were mine. Note: (this was shortly after I entered the Supra game)- don't be cheap- do NOT buy a used heater core! But yeah, the rest were friend's cars. Seems like they're more prone to fail after sitting for extended periods of time, though that's just a guess...

2002 is when I picked up my 86.5 black car. (RIP- parted it out due to serious amounts of structural rust) Had 187k on it. Picked up the white car about two years ago, no engine, no tranny, otherwise complete with 100k on it. Hasn't had a motor in it since I bought it. One day I'll get...

Sick. Action shots/video when you get around to it! :) Obviously w/ the 22re you've got a gear driven transfer case, what gears and adapter did you use? Marlin? Trail Gear? And what ratio did you end up with? The 4.7's, or dual 2.28's?

No pics, but basically you unbolt the cover plate at the fire wall, unbolt the coupler at the splines near the rack, remove the two 17mm bolts securing the column to the dash brace (under dashboard), unplug wiring and control boxes, and remove. It's fairly straight forward.

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Rewiring the knock sensors on a properly functioning system won't net you any gains at all. If that dude put his car on a dyno with code 52 then I could see losing a massive amount of power. I mean, the timing retards a full 10° when code 52 is set in an effort to prevent detonation. Code 52...

He's implying that having a 3" exhaust doesn't have as much benefit if there's still a 2.25" restriction in it. Get a downpipe with an integrated turbo elbow. That alone will make a huge difference.

Look at your heater valve. Look on the underside of it. See that plunger with a metal rod protruding? Push it to the UP position and zip tie it in place. Try your heat. If it works, check the vacuum line to the heater valve. If that is intact and not leaking at all, replace the heater valve. The...

:cry:

Saw a white '89+ MKIII w/ three piece wing off 9W parked at a tractor place. Anyone on here? I work just up the road from where that car was parked. It had black rims with maybe a chrome/polished lip? It was dark when I passed but the car looked really nice. :) Shoot me a PM if you're here...

:)

first piece tacked in place: lunchtime! white pizza with garlic chicken and broccoli. it was delicious! my "i'm stalking bryan" pic. haha! welded some corners in. top and bottoms of these are welded. hooray for support! shaeff saying: FUCK YOU SUBFRAME! i DARE you to...

Here are some pics of when I revamped my rear subframe. The last pic is as it rests now, as I haven't begun reassembling the car. Bryan here (slow66) on the forum did all the welding: here's another update, finally! i worked on the rear subframe today, got it completely stripped and ready for...

After you do a few of them, you learn a bit about the whole operation. LOL. I think I've done five or six Supra heater cores now, one on my Toyota Pickup, and one on my M3.

Aren't those reflections on the outer clear/plastic housing?

A tune up will do nothing to fix code 52. Most commonly, as OfnaRcR4 stated already, it's the wiring that's to blame. If the wiring checks out (check continuity of the signal wires to ground, should be none) then one or both of your knock sensors are bad. You can test them with an oscilloscope...

Click the link in my signature to check your diagnostic trouble codes to find out why your check engine light is illuminated.