I traded my AW11 which was running, but had rust. For a non running 89' Supra Turbo A/T with a targa top, the starter went out he said. He also stated the guy he bought it from sold it for $1200 without the head on which his buddy put together for him. I don't know the credibility of his work, but I do know the shell of this car not running would be worth more than mine anyway. I took a chance and he had also bought a brand new Bosch starter, but never installed. Let me tell you guys, it took me about 3 hours under that car and my neighbor at the end holding a wrench on the top nut while I tightened it with my new craftsman wratchet and 23" of extensions put at an angle beside the bellhousing to the tranny with a 14mm swivel socket on it. The guy couldn't find the receipt to the starter so I couldn't get a 90'+ starter making reinstall way easier because I heard the holes are threaded so the bolts just go right in. So with the new starter in and cables reconnected the time of chance had arrived. The guy I bought it from said it was his first car, he was pretty ignorant on the subject of anything import. I believed him though, he seemed honest at heart and a good person. Key in the ignition still up on stands I turn it and the car fires up without hesitation. No plate on it yet, but it does have new downpiping and a high flow magnaflow cat. The smog will not be a problem even here in cali and there are tags to pay since august of this year. It is my new baby and to me the sexiest car I have ever owned. I dunno if many would qualify it to be rubbed with a diaper, but I do. I get a CEL if I rev above 2k, but the engine sounds smooth. I dunno if it needs a tune up since the head has been rebuilt, but I love the sound of the turbo. I want to baby this car, the wiring has seen better days the owner before that guy hacked the harness. The car had a cover to it, but the guy lived in the ghetto and the cats clawed it up he said. I bet you guys are dieing for pics so here they are. :naughty:
Best trade ever N/A to Turbo!
- Thread starter mostdef
- Start date
Thank you, I really look forward to investing some major cash into this car. Not that I have much as I am a broke college student. I want to buy another cover for it and put a nice system for cruising in it. It still has the lift back cover to hide whats in there and the little cargo netting in the trunk. The original owners manual was with it too. I have the ignition cover for it I just need to match the screws up it was that way when I got it. The car still has the cover I don't know how it goes on the one for the oil and spark plug covers. It says Toyota 24 valve DOHC Turbo Intercooler or something like that. One side of it is cracked and was in the trunk when I traded him. I want to redo the head gasket with a metal one and ARP studs.
Welcome.!
That cover always breaks, might as well toss it, or buy a CF replica from Retro-Spec in the misc. vendors section..
That cover always breaks, might as well toss it, or buy a CF replica from Retro-Spec in the misc. vendors section..
thanks for the diagnostic codes. I know this is my next step to count the beats. I have owned an H22A Prelude in the past, this car is way better by far. My MR2 was probably the most fun because it was the one I didn't care for the looks of it only the engine. This will be the sweetest car I ever own and maybe stay with me forever. I want to swap it some day with a manual conversion, I wasn't scared of the A/T because there was less chance for abuse since it wasn't running and I wouldn't have been able to check anything on a manual transmission such as the throw out bearing or synchros. Wish me luck I think it is something stupid, I need a new clutch fan soon. I think maybe it is the knock sensor? We shall see.
ok so I have a code 52 KS open circuit. I don't hear a knock in the engine though only a rough idle at times and that could be expected because of the old gas right? I think its time to replace the KS anyone have a good guide for it. I should also mention I have never dealt with wiring before, but I am a pretty intelligent person if given detailed instructions. If I can do the starter I can do anything:icon_razz
Welcome to Supramania. Car looks really clean, is it absolutely rust free?? And if you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for the car?
to my knowledge the only rust is on the left lower tail light where it got cracked and the pain chipped away there is rust there. other than that this car is really clean. I traded a rusty cancered MR2 AW11 for it, I have found out the head gasket is gone though probably. The guy that I got it from said it was in sacramento and it had a cover he bought it without the head on it and it had been resurfaced. Now my question is can I get away with only putting a new gasket on? Maybe he didn't select the right thickness and it sealed improperly? I have only drove the car very short distances, but it doesn't overheat. I do have that grayish residue in my oil cap though 
and bubbles in my coolant overflow. If it only needs a new gasket I want to keep the car and baby it. If i need the block and head resurfaced its going back on CL unless someone here would give me a fair price. It has the sports package and targa top. I would say my MR2 was worth maybe $1000 maybe even less, but it ran pretty damn good. How would I check the block and head for damage is there no way to know without tearing it off the car? If so what tools will I need, I changed the starter so the head gasket couldn't be any harder. Thanks everyone
and bubbles in my coolant overflow. If it only needs a new gasket I want to keep the car and baby it. If i need the block and head resurfaced its going back on CL unless someone here would give me a fair price. It has the sports package and targa top. I would say my MR2 was worth maybe $1000 maybe even less, but it ran pretty damn good. How would I check the block and head for damage is there no way to know without tearing it off the car? If so what tools will I need, I changed the starter so the head gasket couldn't be any harder. Thanks everyone
Okay, before I attempt to answer some of your questions, I just want to mention that I am by no means a pro and have had very little experience with head gaskets. I've been on this site for a while now and understand the basics so I'm sure I'm capable lol.
Is it possible to get away with just putting a new head gasket on?? Yes, but I wouldn't recommend it without confirming that the head/block surfaces are flat. As for checking for head/block damage, the only way I can think of is the original pull and inspect procedure, any other way is beyond me.
All in all, pull the head/block and get them resurfaced as it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Get the right thickness gasket (I, and as most would recommend a metal head gasket for peace of mind), ARP studs is a MUST as the stockers tend to stretch (don't quote me on that) and torque it to the specified ft lbs (~85 I think). No special tool is needed to do a head gasket, at most is a torque wrench.
All this info with even greater details can be found in the tech section, thought I'd be generous tonight and help out a bit haha. Well, good luck!!
Is it possible to get away with just putting a new head gasket on?? Yes, but I wouldn't recommend it without confirming that the head/block surfaces are flat. As for checking for head/block damage, the only way I can think of is the original pull and inspect procedure, any other way is beyond me.
All in all, pull the head/block and get them resurfaced as it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Get the right thickness gasket (I, and as most would recommend a metal head gasket for peace of mind), ARP studs is a MUST as the stockers tend to stretch (don't quote me on that) and torque it to the specified ft lbs (~85 I think). No special tool is needed to do a head gasket, at most is a torque wrench.
All this info with even greater details can be found in the tech section, thought I'd be generous tonight and help out a bit haha. Well, good luck!!