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What does it mean, "a locked up R154", and why would changing the engine prevent a transmission problem from happening again?

DVM = digital volt meter. If the problem is intermittent, then you will need to shake the harness while measuring to find broken wires.

car was running fine -> harness melted and no longer runs -> repaired harness, still doesn't run -> ? I suggest you focus on the harness rather than replacing all the engine parts. Quite possibly you have an issue with the injector wiring, but rather than guess, get out a DVM and start debugging.

You don't need to switch back to 440s since you have the Lex AFM.

This morning I was going to say its a fuel problem. Classic symptoms.

Say what?

Unless your throttle body and FMIC have a leak, they will not make any difference here. Stop focusing on it. You have all the advice you need to get to the bottom of this.

So if I read between the lines correctly you added all this stuff and it has has never run correctly since. That means pretty much anything could be wrong. First you need to fix the code 22. Its not going to warm up properly without a coolant temp sensor. Assuming you have 550cc injectors...

or perhaps the plug wiring was connected wrong. Easy to do since any wire will plug into any coil.

A 2 minute search of Ebay shows the "3-rows" for sale all had the top semicircle mounting pads and the dimensions were given. So with a tape measure the OP can go see if it will fit and not rely on a bunch of hearsay from this thread. Overall Size: 26.50" x 18.50" x 3.00" Core Size: 25.50" x...

It seems you do not know what the codes mean. You are confusing 51 with 41. This will help. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=28

41 is a wiring issue to the TPS (or the TPS is bad) but is not the cause of your no start. Code 22 will make it hard to start (defaults to 80 degrees C), but is also not your main problem. You need to check for fuel and spark. Run some ether into the booster hose.

Actually that's good. It means you have a problem between your battery and the rest of the car. I would look at the battery ground cables, and also the wiring from battery positive to the 2mm fusible link, and the fusible link itself. See diagram link...

(True/False questions) 1) Do you have 12V at AM2 fusible link? 2) Do you have 12V at AM1 fusible link? 2) Do you have 12V at Alternator fusible link?

Yup. its no big deal, just needs to be taken care of.

... and they have too much clearance because the cam bearings are worn, like every high-mileage 7M. You can plastigauge to confirm.

I think these are interesting posts on ffcars.com

Green plugs on the electronics is another tell. Pre 90 block.

NE is used to signal 30 degrees of crank rotation to the ECU. G1/G2 are used to find TDC for cylinders 1 & 6. The ECU will work fine with only one of G1 or G2, but will take slightly longer on average to start. NE is a must though, it won't run without it. On a more modern car, the crank...

You say you have no power at the ECU. Well, then check that you have power at igniter etc. If you do, then your problem is the wiring between the fuse and ecu. If everything is dead, then look at common wiring from the fuse for all of the above. You have to get in their and start troubleshooting.