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Mine came off without a tool and that was in 2006. Many miles since then. But I think you have the right idea. You are looking for something that is out of alignment. Look at the crank snout for any damage to keyway, or indication of movement of the pulley.

Put some dishwashing soap or armor-all in the hole and they will slip on much easier.

Put the factory system back the way it was (i.e. get a shroud) and then test the fan clutch and electric fans. A blocked 1 year old radiator seems far fetched unless he's running pure water or something ridiculous like that. Its well known that the shroud is not optional.

Seems like something is causing this. A brand new pulley that separates in less than a year is not normal.

Check the rear wheel wells too. That's where the trouble usually starts.

Could it be the Gates belt? Seems like you have that in common, and I haven't heard this being an issue before.

This looks like the one. Chop off the tail to make it fit. http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/hose-heater/dayco-hose-heater-/883074_0_0/

I don't know if its still available, but there is a stock rubber hose that tapers from 1" to 3/4". Here is a link showing the part as Kragen (B70773), but the link is dead. Kragen is now O'Reilly I think. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/porsche_bov.aspx

I ended up gambling a few years back and went for the 91-92's at half the price. They have worked great for me on my 90. Good to see the comparison, makes me feel even better about going with the later ones.

Don't plug it into the ecu for continuity check. Otherwise the ecu can fool you into thinking there's continuity because of internal circuit paths to ground. If when unplugged the test shows no continuity then that should be fixed.

I wish I could find the thread of the guy who had a kicked up pebble go into his open timing belt cover causing the belt to snap when the pebble became wedged between a pulley and the belt. Major mayhem. It was probably 6-8 years ago at least.

4 foot iron gas pipe worked for me

Its either the sensor or the wiring. Seems like you've verified its not the sensor.

I don't know that I got the last one, but I did get it about 4 months ago. Bought it online from Camelback.

"Two-pass" cat. I think that qualifies as a Freudian Slip! Slightly better than a "One-Pass" cat maybe. :-)

SideWinderGX, which blinker module are you using?

I have parts on order. Will update when I get things working.

Evap issues are going to be on the intake side of the engine. If the smell of gas is your primary concern then make sure the charcoal canister, plumbing, tank, gas cap and such are all in good condition and functional. The RT converter must meet at a minimum the U.S. EPA aftermarket converter...

I am confused. Is it the windows that don't work, or the locks, or both?

I would check for continuity of the wires that go from door to chassis as the door is moved from open to closed. Possibly one is broken internally and not making contact when the door is fully closed.