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IG2 powers only the ecu, igniter/ignition coils, and fuel injectors. Check for 12V at all of those components.

Time to do a voltage drop test. Be sure to check the voltage drop across the ignition switch. Also, check the starter motor copper contacts.

The 16815 is externally amplified but looks identical. The units with external amplifiers are not universally compatible. There are a number of different connector designs over the years, but you can adapt them as the actual electrical signals don't change, just the number of pins and pin functions.

Tanabe's are that color. They also usually have plastic inter-coil pads.

Referring to your post #40, the bottom CD player is an 8/12 14201 (86270-14051). I suspect the 8/12 means it plays both 8 and 12 cm disks. The tape/radio unit is an 11701 (86120-14771).

Thanks for the explanation. I'm a bit ticked too that the factory shields and braces are not usable. Were you able to do anything with the bottom brace?

Looking through your pictures I noticed that you were able to attach the stock heat shield to the Boss Jr. My Boss Jr. does not have the lugs to mount the shield. Was that something you added to the exhaust housing?

All CD/tape from 89+ were externally amplified. There is a short multi-pin interconnect from tape player to the lower cd player. There is a longer multi-pin from tape to under seat amp. There is an extender cable from the factory stereo connectors in the center console to the amp under the seat...

Is the IACV plugged in? It won't set a code if it is not. Does it click when you turn off the engine?

I believe that W(*66) means with ABS. So no, not the same. 04493-14120 Supra (NATO) 08/1988 - 08/1990 MA70 04493-14131 Supra (NATO) 08/1988 - 08/1990 MA70 W(*66) I'm sure Jeff could confirm if he is still around.

Barb's on the fuel high pressure side seems like a really bad idea to me.

The hanger hardline is 14x1.5 flare (don't know if it is inverted), I just measured my brand new one. I do not know what the filter end is.

I'm guessing he's talking about the $80 foot long flex hose with fittings that goes to the filter. I tried to buy that a few months ago and it was N/A.

There are quite a few differences between AT and MT ECUs, but unless you know what to look for its probably not obvious. Idle control is quite different between them. Also the way they handle trailing throttle is quite different, such as when you change gears in an M/T and close the throttle...

What would be best is something SD before the JZ/VZ/UZ family, as these are later engines that use newer ECU technology than the 7M. I do have the 1JZ ecu code, so I'll poke into it.

Here is my guess. The SD code was pulled from an existing ECU, and replaced the AFM code. That would save a lot of development time. I am trying to track down likely donor ecus they might have used. Would also explain why they had to change the hardware from the standard 7M design. I did not...

Used to be able to buy the clips separately from Toyota for a buck. Not sure if they are discontinued now.

Why is it unnecessary? Venturi effect doesn't apply where you live?

So I recently found a Turbo-A ECU (GTTL trim) on Ebay and bought it to understand how they implemented speed density on the factory ECUs. I was hoping it would be all software, and we could modify standard 7M ECUs to support SD. Unfortunately,that is not the case. The ECU mainboard is different...

Thanks, that is helpful to know. Looks like I better make sure I have all the trim fasteners on hand before starting, plus some urethane. Urethane is misery to remove. All effective chemicals will wreck the paint. I think a knife will be your best bet, but maybe a dremel with a stone could...