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That sucks. My glass is original, so at least I won't be dealing with missing parts. Based on your experience, what is the best order for trim removal (sides, top, corners??).

Bolt, Union (For Water By-Pass Pipe) 90401-22004 A giant easy out will remove the old one. Take it to a machine shop and they should be able to remove it for you. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=1603&P=2

Umm, yeah. A code 52 is the performance killer code. You might have wanted to mention that. Get it fixed, your car will perform much better. The code trips when the ecu listens for specific engine sounds and does not find them, which is why it doesn't trip until you get some load on the engine.

Post a video.

Typically the scoring is in a soft babbit material on the cam journals and bearings. Has a strong sulfur smell, and can be marked with your fingernail. If that is what you see, it is not an issue.

I ordered clips as well, but the ones attached to the car are buried in the urethane and will be a lot of work to replace. I figure its better if they don't get damaged.

I'm sure you've studied this, but it's not really clear to me if the side pieces come off first, or the corner pieces, or what. I'm reluctant to get in there and start yanking on buried delicate clips. Then again, I may just be over-thinking this...

I've got new windshield trim sitting in my garage. Do you have any pointers on removing the old stuff, best order, tricks to release clips, etc. I can't make much sense of the TSRM drawings.

Not sealed, but if its loose its shot. It is not tapered.

My comment was to USDM. The EPM shows squirters on all years starting 87 which was first year of turbo option. 15708-42010 Supra (NATO) 08/1986 - 08/1988 7MGTE..MA70 For non-NATO markets it looks like squirters were not used for man dates of 08/1986 - 07/1987 which would seem to align with...

There is a ground wire to the motor mounting bolt. Check that for damage, and jumper it to a good ground.

Black swan event. From what I see the wipers should work on low and high even if the relay is disconnected. So, the problem is the fuse, wiring, or switch since the motor has been tested. You checked the fuse I hope. So you measure 12V on motor lead 1 (red blue)in high speed mode. Then there...

What about relay (W5 on page 24)?

The oil burning will not impact AFRs unless you are burning oil as fast as you are burning gas (not likely). Could well be the valve seals, but it is a separate problem from your AFR issue. I doubt it is a guide problem, the guides seem to last forever.

Don't over think it. Just do a few simple tests and you will be good. First do test 6. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EC&P=17 If that is good do the vac mod test. If that passes EGR is not your problem here...

You need to look for boost leaks/BOV leaks very carefully. Also, check your EGR is functioning properly. If it get actuated during idle the car will stall.

Factory service manuals are calling for 8-12 microinches RA or better (e.g. Ford 4.6L V8). That's pretty much a mirror finish (glass is about 3 RA). For an aluminum head or block a PCD tool is preferred over CBN, which is better for an iron block. Getting those RA numbers (plus waviness and...

With diamond paste and a large lapping plate a skilled worker can get to the specs needed, everyone else will fail. Sandpaper and a sanding block will not work. The proper solution (for the block) is a CBN cutter on a surface mill. If the block has deep grooves around the cylinder as most do...

A seat or two may have come out. I've heard of that happening if they are replaced improperly.

It means average surface roughness below 90 RA-nm. Actually 25 would be a much better target, but 90 is presumed acceptable. This is a different spec from absolute flatness that you are referring to. Also, the stock OEM gasket will leave deep grooves around each cylinder in the block from the...