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Exactly, no replacement for displacement... unless you have an extra turbo or two :evil2: There are still a dozen scenarios with the 6 cylinders, you could do a 2JZ-GE NA-T on 7M-GTE electronics, or a 2JZ-GTE with stock twins, a 2JZ-GTE with a big single, a 1.5JZ, a 7M with a big bad single...

Looks good, the paint went down well it looks like. Address that rust asap. It WILL get much worse, my 86 had a little like that and I let it go, now its spread and much worse.

Stick with the R154, it will be much easier to source and fit parts that way.

Iron block can be had complete for less than 1k, thats about the only plus. Ohh yea, with no turbo you can push 400-500hp, but some people just cant live without hearing that turbo spool. :)

LS1? Best bang for the buck in my opinion. Even a LT1 would work. Do some research, put a turbo on it, and make 400-500hp for around 6K. If you want to go a more cost effective route find yourself a iron block V8 with aluminum heads from a GM truck, put together a cheap single turbo kit and...

Was this the same one that offered heated seat inserts?

Looks good! I like the seats, where did you get the covers from?

Thanks! You wont be disipointed with the initial tourque and horsepower but if you are, I'm sure putting some boost through it would make a real fun tire shreadding rig.

My advice.... tint the windows! I'm not a fan of the dark smoked tails but if you paired that with some nice dark tint I think it would go together more so than not. Other than that its a neat little project you got going, enjoy it!

A search on this forum would yeild information about this. But... The coolant passing through the throttle body is for colder (very cold) climates and weather conditions. It can be bypassed with no major problems, just be aware it is there for a purpose.

Thanks! Yea, I'm keeping my fingers crossed for some boost. Got a update, did a almost complete rehab on the electrical systems for the swap. Installed my new harness in the engine bay and dash. The new dash harness fits like a glove, all those excess wires took up a lot of space. Also...

Haha, ok ok. Its called the "fish" and supports a Vortech V1 or V2 centrifugal supercharger, and maybe, just maybe a turbo will feed it.

Ahh, ok, when I was doing my manual rack the idea came up to put a second u-joint in when the heat shield had a collission with the steering shaft, but a quick tap with a hammer fixed the shield enough. :) When you get things mocked up a little more could you post/send some pics of the dp...

I stayed up late and finished up my final iteration of my swap harness for the dash. All points of connection are soldered and protected with heat wrap and conduit. I'm proud of my self for this one, its simple, and kills all those unnecessary wires. Also ordered a set of tires, chose a set...

WOW, looks great! I love a super clean looking engine like that. How are you for clearances on the sheering shaft?

The MOMO hub I have has a contact surface for the horn circuit, its copper I believe. It is as the base of the hub facing the front of the car, I had to make a small tab and mount it utilizing one of the misc unused screws for the round slider since it was gone there were a few places to mount...

Check your voltage at the 7.5A IGN fuse in the driver’s side kick panel, you should be getting 12v when the key is at "ON" if that doesn’t get 12v then the ECU will not turn on, and the CEL will not illuminate.

I think it would look better if the text was lower, align bottom of text with the bottom of the outline. I do like the idea of having "chapter" groups.

With a adapter plate you will use the 1UZ auto bell housing, a modified flywheel (3SGTE?), and any clutch set up for the R154 (disk and plate). You will have to provide access in the bell housing to install the clutch. Then you will need to do something about the slave cylinder, since it will...

Started my o2 sensor simulators for the rear sensors.