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Yes sir

Nice runs fellas, good to see some action around here

Maybe to run a line from the crankcase vent system for the vacuum source

Stock def go oem.. even if you plan on doing light mods with the stock turbo oem can take it and will last the longest if not neglected. If you plan on doing some moderate mods i had a stock pressure plate and act 6 puck last 5+ years at over 400whp

Any decent exhaust shop should be able to do it. Just get everything installed and drive it over. Should only need the wastegate flange and they can make the bend for you

The fact that you keep referring to the engines limit in PSI and not HP/TQ clearly shows your lack of knowledge. It's time to stop posting

In short, yes you are wrong Questions should be answered with real world experience not "research"

You realize the problem of blowing stock head gaskets has nothing to do with the stock Toyota gasket right? I run an oem Toyota hg with arp studs for over 2 years now with arp studs at over 400whp, your setup is fine you need to find another tuner who knows what they are doing. That turbo is...

I didnt read the above link but the procedure i use for home ac is to use a flush pressureized thriugh the line by nitrogen while the systems lines are still open. Than seal all the lines and use nitrogen again to simply pressure test the system and make sure it holds the pressure with no loss...

I'm doing this right now. If the ac lines were open that it may need a good flush to remove anything in them. All the ac seals are cheap from rock auto and just make sure you pull a strong vacuum before you recharge it to remove any moisture in the lines

It's easy if you get the 89+ ecu/harness everything will just plug in. It can be a nightmare hacking up the 88 harness to work with the 90 shell

I know the stock boost and oil pressure are electrical the senders are in the engine bay

Sell your 88 ecu and harness and find a 89+ harness and ecu. Much much much easier and no hack job required

No cel check the ecu for power

Just save yourself a lot of time, headaches, money and embarrassment and have the trim painted to match the body

Sould be fine as long as the relay is installed correctly with the proper gauge wire (bigger is always better) and solid connections, especially the ground make sure it is on bare metal. A wire brush drill attachment works great for this and a few self tapping screws to make sure it doesn't come...

What's that glade jingle... Plug it in, plug it in

Disconnect the positive power wire from the battery and use an amp meter with one lead on the battery and one lead on the wire to measure the amperage draw. Than start pulling fuses until the amp draw goes away and that should point you in the right direction of what is draining the battery...

Is the spoiler for sale????? Haha kidding but nice work so far man

Measure and fab up brackets than find someone who can weld