Yes that is exactly what I'm affraid of. It was just those 50 ft/lbs didn't feel like anything.
Gonna order OEM bolts and be done with it. It is only going to take slightly more than stock level hp.
I'm changing the rod bearings on my 2JZGTE before dropping it in.
I bought some ARP rod bolts and reading the instructions it tells me to torque it down using some kind of device to measure stretch. I don't know how to do that.
If I can't do that then they tell me to torque it to 50 ft/lb...
I'm doing a 2JZ swap and I'm right now in the process of changing the rod bearings.
What I see from the crankshaft is 1 1 1 1 1 1 (first to 6th cylinder)
The rods say: 2 3 2 2 2 2 (first to 6th cylinder)
So I assume the bearings I should use are: 3 4 3 3 3 3
When I take the rods...
What would it take to mate a A340 from a MA70 to a 2JZGTE from a JZA80 and would it be possible to swap over the valve body from the MKIV TT autotransmission without any modifications?
I'm thinking this might be a way to retain automatic transmission without the need for a custom drive shaft...
Does anyone know the difference between the Aristo transmission and the MKIV transmission? (both from the 2jz-gte versions)
Are the plugs the same? Can both accept the rear housing of the 7mGTE A340 to retain speedometer drive and original drive shaft?
Does anyone know the default dipswitch settings to the F-CON on the mkIII?
S1, S2, S3, S4, SW1, SW2, SW3, SW4?
Maybe someone could post a high res photo of the internals of their working F-CON?
My friend has a MA70 with 7MGTE and 550 cc injectors. Boss jr 57 trim turbo. JDM A/T ECU on a manual car.
We first ran it with a Lexus AFM and it was running extremely rich (AFR 9 or lower) and was cutting out and couldn't boost more than 0.3 bar.
It turned out there was a hugh crack in...
I don't know.
When I first realized I had this problem I had Toyota adjust the valves so I assume it is as it is supposed to be. I was there looking over their shoulder while they were doing it.
Didn't change anything.
I got a spare from a friend. That one was within specs.
It didn't change anything though.
I have checked the coils and the igniter and they turn out fine. I'm starting to suspect a valve not closing all the way. The compression test is fine though.
Oh well, I'm not spending too much...
What kind of symptoms would you get if the resistance of the pickup coils are too high?
I've been tracking a misfire for some time but I never bothered to check the CPS until today.
The resistance of the coils are all around 225 ohm.
The TSRM says to replace the CPS if the resistance...
As far as I know the D stands for D-type F-con and E for E-type F-con.
Your F-con should have a D on the back if it comes with a D-type rom.
The E and D types used different MAP sensors. I don't know if you can use an E-rom in a D-type F-con.
I asked that question a few months ago...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.