I'm changing the rod bearings on my 2JZGTE before dropping it in.
I bought some ARP rod bolts and reading the instructions it tells me to torque it down using some kind of device to measure stretch. I don't know how to do that.
If I can't do that then they tell me to torque it to 50 ft/lb in three steps (torque/unscrew torque/unscrew and then finally torque 50). I tried that on on one of the Toyota bolts just to compare to the OEM specs and it felt way less than the OEM. I do realize that properties of the metal in the ARP bolts are most likely different than OEM and they will stretch in another way and maybe way less.
But I decided to torque the ARP bolts in the OEM way with 29 nm and then a 90 degree turn.
Now I have second thougths. Would this be the road for disaster?
If so I'll yank out the ARPs and get some OEM bolts instead and torque to OEM specs.
I bought some ARP rod bolts and reading the instructions it tells me to torque it down using some kind of device to measure stretch. I don't know how to do that.
If I can't do that then they tell me to torque it to 50 ft/lb in three steps (torque/unscrew torque/unscrew and then finally torque 50). I tried that on on one of the Toyota bolts just to compare to the OEM specs and it felt way less than the OEM. I do realize that properties of the metal in the ARP bolts are most likely different than OEM and they will stretch in another way and maybe way less.
But I decided to torque the ARP bolts in the OEM way with 29 nm and then a 90 degree turn.
Now I have second thougths. Would this be the road for disaster?
If so I'll yank out the ARPs and get some OEM bolts instead and torque to OEM specs.
