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After I installed my new turbo, and had to bend the dip stick tube into a new position, I noticed that mine started popping up as well. The rubber seal at the top of it is not fitting snugly, and I can pull it up with a very light tug. I was going to try a new dipstick, but in the meantime, I...

The stock metal pipe that attaches to the 2 valve covers on my 7M was a little larger than 5/8" (same as -10 AN). I cut the pipe shorter, cut back the stainless braid on my new hose and forced it on with a hose clamp. Not pretty but it works for now (wrapped in elec tape). Later on I will weld...

Duane's buddy works in a machine shop and made up one for Duane in a jiffy, and was thinking of selling them...

Wouldn't an aftermarket proportioning valve allow you to adjust and "reduce" the current stock restriction to the rear? Allowing more braking force to the back?

I was telling him this too. It's not like there's a "whole bunch" of boring widebody builds that go on around here :) Sebastian, kudos for attempting the work yourself. I played with bondo and bodywork on my '73 Corolla when I was 16 years old. Terrible results. "Never again" I said ;)

Wether or not this one is good or bunk, I've always love the concept of this. My car has so much more torque at 5000 rpm than anywhere else. If I could accelerate the car while keeping the engine at that TQ peak, the difference in acceleration would be astounding. (Isn't this kind of what top...

For your interest, the previous owner of my '87 removed the ABS. I swapped in Mk4 TT rears at the same time as the Doward kit so I never noticed such a huge difference in Bias. In fact, under extreme braking, my TT rears will begin to lock before the fronts do(even with 295 rears), but the bias...

^^^Forgot to snap a pic, but it's mounted upside down to the side of the battery box. So the in and out hoses are slightly below the tank's outlet. One other benefit! I think my engine has been SUPER steam cleaned from this methanol kit. It always had trouble with cold starts, and now it starts...

On the street it's not so bad. I've limited the boost in 1st gear to 13psi, and in 2nd it slips occassionally but hooks quite well. On the track however, any wheelspin at all quickly turns into wheel hop which is very hard on the car. Some pics of the AEM methanol kit install with 2.5 gallon...

My rear wing tips tuck in very close to the window, and it really shows off the bulging fenders, like a Porsche. The amount of work is overwhelming, but you'll get there. Just last night I went for some late-night speeding and chicken McNuggets. Coming back to my parked car under the street...

I would have suggested doing what Randy did to mine, and not make that 2nd cut further up, but pull the whole thing out and extend the ledge. Best of luck though.

Looks like you made some good decisions on the body parts! My head hurts looking at that, knowing how much work that is! I lost tons of last year's summer and 3 months already this year being a slave to the car. I must keep mine forever because I would never have the will to build it all over again!

550's aren't so bad for power later on either. I was able to get quite a bit more fuel out of them with more fuel pressure via an aftermarket fuel regulator. With these injectors and a $350 AEM methanol kit adding a little more fuel I can push 24+ psi without any fuel cut (pulling fuel with an SAFC)

We originally built the car around the wheels, and I bought tires that fit the wheels (295 rear). There is room for 345's out back, but I would have to have the wheels widened, since Work said they no longer make these rims/inner halves.

Nice setup and car overall. I was 100% set on buying those same ADR rims until I got sucked into buying my Works off eBay :D

My car is quite fast to 60 (from a roll... ) ;)

You can use any of my vids. http://www.youtube.com/user/tekdeus1111 My driveshaft has been solid at over 400hp with excellent fitment.

It's because those eBay/Greddy style manifolds have the flange at such an angle. Generally you have to either build a custom angled riser/adaptor or weld a T3 flange on there if the turbo is small enough to clear the runners.

I've always liked these :) But you'd think a Toyota salesperson would be forced to learn the company's past history and models, just like we were forced to learn our country's history in school!

I forget which wire is the tach signal, but I used the ECU ground as the -, as I read that was the proper way to do it. I also discovered on my SSI-4 that the RPM tach signal read wrong until I set the RPM redline/resolution to around 6850 via the software. What module are you looking to use...