i had a leak at the same spot few months back. only when the system was pressurized. hose looked perfectly fine. i just pulled on it and the line broke in 2. replaced that line and i was good to go.
alright my climate control is pretty ghetto right now. i have a seperate switch for my temp up and down and half my LED's dont work and i dont know why. since i removed and soldered them again? but anyways.... i see ppl selling climate controls that are perfectly good. my qeustion is are there...
150 is a good deal for assembly. i thought it woulda been alot higher. it usually is around here. so if i could pick up a block and bottom end from a junkyard it would be worth it? that way i can just change over what i need when the time comes to pull the old motor. i guess i have some time to...
thats not bad at all. so you had someone else assemble it for you? so i might even be able to save some there. but thats not bad for short block, considering i already have most the other stuff i need to assemble the rest of teh motor. all my new parts that is. i hear of ppl going with JE or...
so a rebuilt is what people are leaning towards.... if i pull my motor and rebuild it, how much am i looking at in parts roughly? how much is a set of rods w/ pistons and rings? i know i am gonna have to get a valve job among other things but how much am i looking at if i do the whole rebuild?
so i recently found out i am getting rod knock. so i know i am going to have to change bearings, if not more in the process. but i have already been getting alota parts together for a higher hp setup. now my question to you all is..... should i drive my car for a lil longer the way it is? then...
the noise mine has is like that of a locker. i dunno if any of you ever been around them when they lock in or out. but it has like a snap sound, sounds really bad but its just how its made. my car only done it ever now and then. thats what i cant figure out what the deal is.
so your saying its at the point now where is it still able to be saved? thats good to hear. but i have to drop the pan before i can oder the set? is that what your saying?
i have put about 100 miles on my new clutch now and i seem to be getting a snapping noise sometimes. its done it ever since i put it in. i have the 6 puck clutch and 3200pp with alum flywheel and driveshaft. when i back up and then to go forward it sometimes has a snap noise to it. or when i...
i have had my car for about 9 months now or so. and i noticed since i got it that when i am in first gear and reving slow. when i hit about 2500 rpm it knocks a lil then goes away after about 2700. it use to be worse when i got it if thats possible. i dont think its rod knock b/c it only does it...
yeah that makes sense. i would want to tune it. atleast for the first time to make sure where everything should be set at. i havent got ahold of a maft-pro yet to see what it is capable of yet, but i agree on not just letting it do it on its own.
i am going to be in the process of upgrading my fuel system within the near future. at the same time i will be installing a maf-t pro. would it be worth the extra cost to go ahead and make my fuel system e85 capable? i am already planning on pump, lines, fpr, injectors, and fuel rail. from...
now if you were running a maf-t pro with all the mods needed for the e85 setup. would you be able to switch back and forth between the two fuels by using different maps? b/c if i ever planned to go on a long road trip i know i would have to use reg gas since most places still dont carry the...
does the turbo still spool up fine using alky? i know it runs alot cooler all around. another thing i was thinking about was the O2 sensor. you would have to get some kinda diff setup for that right?
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.