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Found them where?

The VIN on the engine is in a secret location? Yeah ok :D Hmm...actually, where is it? I'd like to check anyways lol. edit: Dammit, engine number != vin number.

#19 is my Achilles' heel. Good post!

Another +1 for a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft from ShaftMasters. The only time it vibrates is when there is snow/slush/salt underneath my car or on my tires. It goes away in about 5 minutes when its thrown off. (Obviously only happens on snowy winter days).

FWIW, I have receipts from the previous owner of my car stating that the crank balancer/bolt fell off of the car while driving and the car immediately stalled/shut off. Mechanic put everything back on (still deemed it good), torqued down to the proper spec and off it went. No damage today.

hahahaha:biglaugh:

My rust spots on the rear fenders have doubled in size this past winter...and the oal rusted areas weren't small either. Not good :(

Cruise control won't work?

Everything bolts back in the way it should, so everything will operate as beforehand (cept the IC pipes obviously)? Yeah I'll buy one eventually :) But for $800 it's not going to be my top priority, if you know what I mean.

No shit, I never would've thought. I'll read up on those restrictors too and how they work. You could always splice into the power wire going to the fans and run it to an led mounted somewhere on the dashboard. It wouldn't help if the fan motors blew, but that's the least likely scenario anyways.

You're smarter than me....just some clarification: it would really cycle through the radiator too fast to cool down? I never ever would've thought about that...

If I had to put money on it, I'd say the mechanical, with a properly working clutch and fan shroud pulls more air in the upper rpm band. But that's just a guess. Just did some googling, because now I'm really interested...found this...

Noone knows. The general answer people respond with is 'more than electric fans', which is never backed up with any substantial data.

Go read the website posted dude. The writer went on a tangent discussing how many amps the fan draws, getting a number somewhere around 70 amps....then adds in a 30% inefficiency rating just because he feels it is needed. So suddenly the fan is drawing nearly 100 amps according to his...

Ignoring that guy's points about the stock harness/stock alternator/stock thermostat getting stressed (car specific, and you should always run new wires to not be dependent on the stock wiring, duh), he only has a few somewhat valid points about electric fans....which I will try to invalidate...

Inline relay is the way to go. Also with the inline fuse, put bullet terminals on it in case you have to swap out the inline fuse wire due to a short/electrical gremlin...it'll save you so much time if the fuse ever blows and melts the fuse holder with it.

Drove back to college just now, when OD is off and the car is in 3rd gear it stays engaged no matter the rpm. The engine braking isn't as strong as low or second (gearing probably?) but it still does it. So what page of the TSRM was this on lol? I need to fix something :biglaugh:

While other people may have problems with their setups, I do not. I'll take your word on people having problems with their cars on road course events though...I have no experience with that, nor do I know anyone personally that races with electric fans. Syracuse, in the summer, has 95+...

I concede then, you are right :icon_bigg My bad.

My electric fan works perfectly fine, everyone needs to stop turning a blind eye to them. Electric superchargers and electric fans are vastly different, try to keep it apples to apples.