Look at post #16 in that thread, looks like the OP figured out the problem...fuel pump relay.
Find the relay, check it out, replace if necessary. If that doesn't work...maybe someone else can chime in because I don't know lol.
I have a lot of negative camber on my FRONT tires, and my rear tires are perfectly fine after lowering with Illumina 2's and Eibachs. Borhor said in another thread that Eibach's don't lower the car enough so that you can't get both toe and camber correct, can someone confirm this?
The insides...
mk3dude, mind if I ask a few questions in here regarding camber? I don't want to start a new thread on almost the same thing but don't want to steal your thread, so to speak.
I'm almost in the same boat as you, except I didn't get it aligned RIGHT after I instealled my Illumina 2's/Eibachs. Now the insides of my brand new tires are bald :(
Mine rubbed too, the very inside of the rim would rub against the bottom of the strut where the spring rests, but only when I...
Can't believe I'm making a post about a tie rod, but it's better to ask than keep quiet.
The inner tie rod on the passenger side seems to be attached to a brace for the rack or something. When I try to unscrew the tie rod, the brace unscrews with it, and there isn't enough clearance to get it...
Bookmarked to buy and install this summer :D
My upper pipes are made of metal conduit I got from Home Depot...the stock pipe blew up and I was pressed for time. Been working well so far.
I should stop being lazy and take the ignition fuse out of the kick panel when I leave my car.
Mine is automatic, so no kickstart. Problem is you can shift it out of park without the key in it, so depending on how ballsy the thieves are they could just push it out of the parking lot :D
The stock intercooler pipe near the air filter exploded about a mile from my house, I thought I shot a piston out of the block...
Car wouldn't idle or run well at all, it was chugging all over the place. I had to pull over and wrap a t-shirt around the pipe so I could limp my way home, I didn't...
I agree with you that mechanics/techs should quality check their work. I disagree with the way this specific mechanic/tech checked his work. A cruise two blocks down the road and back would be sufficient, or I'd give the owner shotgun privileges for a 60 second cruise around the block.
Wrong, because the shop shouldn't have taken it on the 5 minute test drive in the first place.
They did something they shouldn't have, they have to bite the bullet. The moron driving the car should've realized this before he romped on it throughout the neighborhood.
Out of sight for 10...
The lower ball joints are the load carrying ball joints. SySt's post is accurate to the t :)
Driftmotion sells some lower ball joints with zerk fittings for like $30 each, and the lower ball joints are super easy to change assuming you've been underneath a car at least once before.
It wasn't necessarily put in a truck, but it's longer than average stroke and nice low/midrange torque makes it seem like it's a truck motor. The term gets thrown around every once in a while :)
Thanks, I'll look it over soon, I'm hanging my laptop out a window and borrowing my neighbors wireless =X
I doubt the fuse did anything, I don't remember why I took it out either.
Thanks for the hint too :) I'm sure I can find the culprit now.
edit: Looking back through my old posts, found...
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