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And for 3rd just take overdrive off while it's in drive. All three of these gear selections will not disengage the torque converter when you let off the gas, thereby engine braking.

You didn't mention anything about a downpipe/DDP?

In for the headlight information, I haven't found a good thread about them yet. I just swapped in one of the original headlights (too cold to do both, screw that) because I was getting frustrated with the crappy tinted blue ones. Come to find out the highbeam doesn't work on it...

You can push 20 psi without hitting fuel cut? Holy crap.

+1 Be sure to replace the transmission gasket behind the driveshaft (I didn't....stupid stupid stupid) and also use a torque wrench on the bolts for the differential flange. Otherwise it'll vibrate until it loosens up a bit, which is what mine did. Perfectly fine now, and the bolts are still...

:D Same here...I remember mine shot flames when I was boosting up a hill, and the guy behind me was looking at my car like it was an F18 or something. Made me laugh all the way to work.

It's not a problem with your battery. The starter wire is corroded/old/crappy and under certain conditions where if you run it for a short, or super long, period of time, it won't start the car back up for approximately 40 minutes. There's a post over on SF here...

Eh, I'd say people take a longer time to save/build/fix things than others. I know, still kind of funny though :biglaugh:

Is that the extent of the work done to the transmission if you buy a whole one from IPT? Or do they add a few other pieces as well? I haven't heard any problems considering longevity by the few people who actually own a well built auto. Build it right and it'll last you years.

Gah, just my luck I can't find the thread on it. I know exactly what was posted and remember a website/picture that was posted up of a crown vic (I think) on two wheels, with a caption saying 100 psi. There was a bit of an argument about it ;) +1 about why there is a safety factor built into...

Snow tires being very soft is what worries me ;) They heat up a lot quicker than all-seasons do and wear out much faster when driving on anything but snow. You make some good points though.

I have Q rated snow tires on the front of my Supra right now. Q rated tires are rated for 99 mph. They are undamaged tires with a little under half tread life left. TECHNICALLY, is there a factor of safety on the speed ratings of tires? If there is ever a need for me to exceed the speed...

LOL, only 50% runs fine. Wow.

You crack the bolts loose on the retorque? I never knew that :X

I'm posting here just so I can reference this thread in the future, when he answers 87x's question :D

Aaaaahhh. I'll have that done when my BHG comes for a weekend visit :D

One of the two previous owners had a helicoil put in...it came out with the bolt and decided to unravel as well. :3d_frown: It'll get fixed/replaced in the future.

*curses* Now I've gotta see what I tapped the hole to, god I can't remember...

My car got taken off the road for a few weeks (LONG story), and now it's covered by a good 3 feet of snow. You can just make out the shape of a car under the lump. Runs like a champ though :D

+1 on the Cooleeze pipe fitting like garbage. The bead lips are crappy and if you don't have it just right, it'll slip off.