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Not a chance. You'll need to be able to clean off both mating surfaces, and that's just not going to happen while trying to hold the turbo / manifold / DP away from the engine.

Like I said, you can tune to a certain extent with the FPR. Good enough to drive on, anyway, just don't expect to get a lot of miles out of a tank of gasoline.

Oh for crying out loud, not this nonsense again. This depends... on a LOT. Ambient temp, barometric pressure, humidity, engine compression, condition of engine, what turbo, exhaust, intercooler type, placement, and volume, size of IC pipes, fuel delivery system, even temperature of the fuel...

Ok, I'm going to chime in here. The advice you've gotten so far seems more than a little scattered, however, keep in mind the vast majority of the membership has seen this kind of question many times, and seen it result in a 600hp build getting complete... well, probably never. I can think...

He can tune to a certain extent using the AFPR. The Lexus / 550 combo will work for the now, but it'll run really rich. Don't expect good gas mileage until you get a proper system in there for tuning. I'd suggest adding a wideband to that list.

In the engine compartment. I wasn't *that* concerned... not to the point that I'd be willing to deal with the wiring / assembly / disassembly for a sensor outside the engine bay. Furthermore, my IC pipes don't go through the fender anymore, they go through the snorkel hole behind the headlight.

Good luck getting this to stick. I'm going to replace the windshield, now that the car has already lost several sets trying to make it work without going the whole nine yards.

They were probably looking in the clutch section, which is normal. Toyota, in their infinite wisdom, listed the flywheel with the crank in the engine section instead.

I originally put mine in the intercooler piping just before the throttle body, above the valve covers, (which would be the 3000 pipe on a stock vehicle) and it heat soaked BADLY at stoplights. I'd see intake temps climb from 65F to over 100F in the 30 seconds or so it takes for a light to...

The 540 is at 22psi.

540 rwhp on 94 octane as long as I'm full of water / meth. Without the water / meth, in the low 400s.

PT67 BB on mine.

Where is your boost gauge plumbed to?

Sure. Part number 90250-08054, should be under a dollar each from the dealer.

Well, I'm in the SW of Canada, so that's close, anyway. 1989 targa shell, no idea whether the engine was US or J spec, not that there is much of anything left from the factory other than the bare block and head anyway.

He's pretty much got it. Put everything back in, do a bunch of measuring with the feeler gauges, then pull it all apart, measure the shims and swap to get them into spec. It's not a fast process, that's for sure. On the positive side, you won't forget the cams are out when rolling the head...

QFT. I entirely forgot to ask about the gauge being used... it's been so damn long since I tried to rely on the stock gauge I had nearly forgotten about it's deathly slow reaction time.

I know there is a difference between the Canadian and USA spec pinout... (at least according to the TSRM) perhaps those having problems went from one country to the other? Edit: Ah, there we go. Thanks for the info, reydio.

No, the awesomest GF ever brings your sorry ass to a rainbow party with a cheerleading squad. However, I will admit that this comes in a decent second. ;)

Girls... /shakes head. There is a significant different between saying that a POS Mustang / Camaro / whatever should be piloted by a chick (which is what we said) and saying that a chick should pilot a POS Mustand / Camaro / whatever, which is what you said.