i dont know why people dog piggybacks so much. its a lot cheaper, lot easier to tune, and still have the stock ecu to fall back on for closed loop operation. for most of the people on here, a piggyback will work fine.
how we used to do it at the dealership:
cover hatch and interior trim w/ trash bags
spray undiluted ammonia on entire window
turn rear defrost on until the window gets good and warm. may have to cycle a couple times since it has auto shut off.
keep your eye on the ammonia, if it...
yes, the maf has to be after the bov so you wont have any stalling issues. not sure of your Y pipe, but the isc inlet hose has to be on the ic pipe between the maf and the throttle body.
exactly what i was going to say. its one of those fusible links, and often need to take it out to inspect it. mine looked fine, but had a hairline crack in it causing intermittent issues.
also to note, these do NOT pull straight out of the fuse block. you have to unbolt the fuse block, and...
yes. under idle, cruise and part throttle the ecu is going to take care of that for the most part.
under wot, you will need to tune it. it will run ok with no corrections, but most likely its going to be in the 10:1 range. not ideal for power, but it will be ok. the maft does have some...
id go for a 50 shot. i think spraying at launch will just roast the tires tho, esp w/ a small sidewall like you have. i think you may be better served borrowing some real tires.
reaction time wont effect your et. it doesnt start the clock til you roll out of the beams. you can sit there...
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