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Check out some JDM wheels! Works, Volks, Advans, Enkeis. http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/wheels-and-tires-wheels-c-6424_4542.html

Ask BorHor.

Call your local Toyota dealer. By the steering dampener if you mean the shock on the front of the rack. Thats not needed. Most peoples are blown up anyways. There just trying to some money out of you for ordering parts.

Bride =FTW

Get vacuum from the stock bov line. Or just any post throttle body flapper port will work. It isnt going to blow off at all if its plumbed to a pre throttle body source since it will never see true vacuum. I've had SSQVs just stop opening, caused by a ripped/leaking diaphram.

Great numbers! Explain to me though how you get 28+psi from the stock ECU and electronics on a large turbo without hitting fuel cut??

You would normally use the clutch safety switch as a 2-step switch. That way it only 2-steps when you have the clutch down.

MAFTpro is the way to go. I wouldnt ever think about going with just the translator.

Close the gap down to .024 on some new plugs.

Ive heard from a big Norcal subaru tuner that mixing race gas and meth isnt the greatest idea. Supposedly the 2 potential octanes equal each other out. 50/50 meth lets say raises 91 pump to 108; race gas 110. Mix those and youll supposedly get 109 octane with a cooler intake charge. Just...

The factory boost gauge is no good. Get yourself an aftermarket boost gauge. I recommend Prosport, or if your feeling wealthy get a Defi.

Ok thanks guys I will check it out. I hope it's my alternator but I dont think it is because my car never dies like the alternator isn't charging the battery.

The TB side of my PCV system was always capped when I had a 7m.

The brake, battery, and tail light failure lights stay on in my mk3. The lights would flicker sometimes then shut off then come back on. They would also go off when I started getting in the gas. But now they just stay on.. What error is it trying to tell me?

Im not sure what it is but, you arent going to use the stock J-pipe right? If you are, save yourself the trouble and either bypass it or drill it out.

Just about everything.

Wideband Sensor? Has to be 14" from the turbo, also in an upward position so that condensation cant collect in the sensor.

Thats a T4 manifold... Different turbo footprint than a CT26.

The CPS clip is prone to going bad. A great fix that ends up on the forum alot is "just wiggle the clip and the car will run right". hahah. Setting the CPS is a pain though. Theres a great diagram of the correct setting the CPS correctly floating around this forum. Check codes.

I've driven one of those, it was completely stock though. Id never buy one. To open the hood you have to hit a button on the dash that says "bonnet".