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Take it in for a tranny flush. I was doing them at my last mechanic job, and they work great. It's much better than just dropping the pan, and draining the fluid. Even though your fluid looks good, it may be getting pretty tired. As it gets older, some of the additives break down, and can cause...

Then run straight meth, or meth/alcohol. I would do it that way if I had the money to do this.

That's just wrong!

Also, after re-examining the photos, it seems there might be issues with the oil connector, and I'm not even sure it has water cooling. Maybe I wouldn't get it after all.

No part of that turbo is from a ct 26. It has been designed to fit to MKIII parts, but it's definitely not Toyota in any way. As an ebay veteran, I have experience buying from many sellers. His rep looks good, and checking his details, the products he sells, seem to satisfy his buyers. If I had...

Check coil pack and plugs as well. After my extended downtime before rebuild, I had a stumble at idle, and replacing my coilpacks and wires fixed it. Haven't yet inspected the old parts, to determine just what went bad.

Just a hint, this might be better if posted in the Turbo section.

It should be stone cold, so wait at least overnight.

Five heatup\cooldown cycles. No boosting during this process. Only one retorque needed. 80 ft lbs if using moly lube, 120 ft lbs for 30 wgt oil. Read the info that came with the studs, and if you don't have it, I believe it's available on the ARP website.

We will make him love it, for his own good!:evil2:

Check the connector. If the AFM was bad, it wouldn't work right at all. The fact you had it running fine for a time, indicates a transient problem, like a bad connection will cause. Good contact, RUNS, bad contact, NOT!

How about this? Keep OIL in it!:aigo:

How dare you suggest selling a Supra! You should be banished, immediately!:biglaugh:

Here's the relevant page from the EPC. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=7601&P=1 You're welcome.

Let's Imagine that there was a small air bubble trapped in the master cylinder. If you increase the piston travel enough, you can compensate for the air bubble, and it may work, but that would be fixing the symptom, not the problem. I didn't say it definitely was air related, but it well could...

Fix the Supra and keep it, fix the 86 and keep it.

Yeah, so what the fuck was it? Don't leave us in suspense!:3d_frown:

Where's your fashion sense? Black goes with everything. :aigo:

Not saying your wrong, or right. I was just reading a little about them on the site, and it says they use the stock mounting hardware, and the hood still can open in the normal manner. This might indicate that the hooks can stay on, but I saw no specific info about that.

They have the OEM MKIII style, as well. It's 449.00 though.