Search results

You put 550's in. They weren't vipers, were they?

Ask IJ, or jdub, if you don't believe me.

Wasn't pickin on you, just saying.:icon_bigg

^^ Certainly not! It's getting all the fluid changed that's the point. Dropping the pan, nets considerably less then half the fluid replaced, as opposed to the flush.

Worked great for my A340, which now has 188000 miles on it and still runs tops. Also worked great for my girl's Sorento, done two weeks ago. The difference was amazing. Before, it was shifting very hard, and after, like new. Maybe the best of both worlds is possible, drop pan, and replace...

Sorry jdub, I stand by what I said, as that was what I learned in the training session for the system. It also seemed to be verified, by the results achieved, in before and after test drives. I'll stand by it until I see evidence to the contrary.

I posted this earlier, on a similar thread: Well, you're also hoping for a blown head gasket, rod knock, and maybe even a hole in your piston. How many times do you have to read that a FCD is a time bomb waiting to go off, before you get it? Fuel cut keeps you from doing something dumb, and...

I'd kill for that dash!

The j-tube is that little tube on the intake side of the block, that's welded to the oil block-off plate. The fuel return hose routes into and out of it. You can either drill out the cap with the pinhole in it, or bypass it altogether. Are you still using the stock boost gauge? if so, install an...

That was just me being flip about the description. Just trying to confirm the general idea, so he had the basic understanding.

^^ NO guessing, right, jdub?

Wow, never saw that dash before, but that's what it looks like to me.

I had never heard anything bad about the people at MVP, but I will be leery of them now, for saying something like that.

You are correct sir. in addition, incorrect caster can cause a pull as well. Put succinctly, the car will pull to the side with the most positive camber, or the most negative caster.

P.S. baboon, uh I mean gaboon, Try setting your alignment toe out on one side, and drive it. Try to keep the car straight, I.E. drive the car, not the steering wheel, and see what happens. By the way, how many alignments have you done? Professionally, I mean.

I am ASE certified in suspension and steering. What's your certification in? Think carefully about it. It may come to you why you are beyond fucking wrong about this.

As hard as that was to read, I'm still going to take a shot at the most basic part of this. Wheel hop, is caused by a wheel being extremely unbalanced. It also occurs at all times when the wheel is spinning fast enough, and not just going over bumps.

Sorry didn't realize that. My reverse lights have never gone out yet, so I never had a chance to find that out.

Well, you're also hoping for a blown head gasket, rod knock, and maybe even a hole in your piston. How many times do you have to read that a FCD is a time bomb waiting to go off, before you get it? Fuel cut keeps you from doing something dumb, and blowing up your engine. Go ahead, use the damn...

^^ Just checking.